Page 222 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
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220 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


                               1 Rieti
                               Rieti, Lazio; 02100
                               Before the Romans established their
                               Empire, Central Italy was occupied
                               by a number of warlike tribes. The
                               Sabines lived on the slopes of the
                               Apennines and fought often with
                               their neighbour, Rome, before
                               eventually being defeated in 295 BC.
                               Rieti was one of the Sabines’ largest
                               settlements and its medieval city
                               walls are still standing around this
                               bustling provincial capital, which is
                               regarded as the geographical centre
                               of Italy today, as marked in Piazza San  provides spectacular views and a
                               Rufo. Unusually, the city centre has   number of the original mountain huts
                               three linked piazzas, one of which   (now abandoned) can be seen.
                               (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele) was the   ª Follow SS4bis uphill, at the end of
       Above Fountain in Rieti, once a prominent   old Roman forum. The beautiful   Piazzale Campoforogna, turn left for
       Sabine town  Right Cascata da Marmore,    Romanesque arches of the crypt of   Leonessa, on SP10. The road circles
       a spectacular man-made waterfall  the Papal Palace in Via Cintia are   the mountain down to Leonessa with
                               worth a visit. The Basilica di Santa   amazing views. Turn left into SS471,
        WATERSPORTS ADVENTURES  Maria Assunta (open daily) has an   and then left again at town gate to
                               impressive exterior and bell tower   parking area. In winter, return to Rieti
       The Centro Canoa e Rafting “Le
       Marmore”(Via Carlo Neri 28, 05037,   (1252), linked by a fine loggia.  and take SS79 north to Leonessa.
       Papigno Terni; 330 753 420; www.  ª There are many brown signs to
       raftingmarmore.com) organizes   Terminillo. Head for Via del Terminillo,   3 Leonessa
       rafting and inner-tube river descents.  SS4bis, uphill for 20 km (12 miles). Turn   Rieti, Lazio; 02016
                               left into the car park at the village.  Virtually hidden among the Monti
        WHERE TO STAY
                                                       Reatini, this lovely old town is a
       RIETI                   2 Terminillo            surprising find. Enter through the
       Grande Albergo Quattro Stagioni   Rieti, Lazio; 02017  northern gate, the impressive Porta
       inexpensive–moderate    This accessible and modern ski resort   Spoletina, into the narrow Corso San
       This grand old-style hotel in the historic   is a winter playground for modern-  Giuseppe, the main street by virtue
       centre offers a wide range of facilities.    day Romans. In warmer months the   of its shops, bars and 15th-century
       Piazza Cesare Battisti 14, 02100; 0746
       271 071; www.hotelquattrostagioni.com  village and its surroundings provide   Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo. It
                               welcome relief from the heat of the   suddenly opens out into the large
       Hotel Miramonti moderate–expensive  plains below. The area was first   Piazza VII Aprile, the scene of most of
       Set in one of the oldest buildings in
       Rieti, this four-star hotel has moderately   established as a resort in the 1930s   the town’s social activity. The square
       priced rooms and more expensive suites.   and now has all the facilities of an   is larger than in most towns this size
       Piazza Oberdan 5, 02100; 0746 201   alpine ski village. A pleasant 15-minute   as many of its public buildings were
       333; www.hotelmiramonti.rieti.it;   circular walk at Campoforogna   destroyed in an earthquake in 1703.
       parking can be difficult.
       Park Hotel Villa Potenziani expensive
       On a hill outside town, this villa enjoys all
       the benefits of a country location –
       silence, fresh air and top views (note: it’s
       often used for weddings on weekends).
       Via Colle San Mauro 6, 02100; 0746
       202 765; www.villapotenziani.it
       LEONESSA
       Hotel La Torre inexpensive
       This chalet-style hotel is handy for
       the old town and the ski fields. Full-
       or half-board accommodation is
       available as it has its own restaurant.
       Largo Bixio Cherubini 1, 02016; 074
       692 2166; www.hotellatorreleonessa.it
       Right Fortified Labro, founded on a steep hill
       in the 10th or 11th century  Far right Porta
       Spolentina, one of the main gates of Leonessa




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