Page 227 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 22: Lands of Myth and Legend 225

EAT AND DRINK
TODI
La Mulinella inexpensive
Eat with the locals at this friendly
trattoria near Todi. Home-made pasta,
especially lasagne, is worth trying.
Loc. Ponte Naia 29, 06050; 075 894
4779; closed Wed
Vineria San Fortunato moderate
Found right on the main piazza, this
enoteca serves good local dishes.
Excellent wine list.
Piazza Umberto 1, 506059; 392 371
4140; closed Mon
vantage point high above the Tiber, preach to a large congregation. Cavour moderate
evolving to its present state in the Beside the church, a pleasant park The alfresco dining area makes this a
late Middle Ages and Renaissance. with panoramic views stretches great venue on warm summer evenings
The magnificent main square, Piazza across a space once occupied by – not to mention the excellent food
and wine. Try pizza with black truffles
del Popolo, was the Roman Forum a fortress. Santa Maria della and porcini or pasta with wild asparagus.
and is now the site of splendid public Consolazione (open daily), on the Corso Cavour 23, 06050; 075 894 3730;
buildings including the 12th-century edge of town, echoes the style of the closed Thu
cathedral, the Duomo di Santa Maria great churches of Rome and Florence. Pane e Vino moderate
Annunziata (open daily). The grand In the shape of a Greek cross, with Cosy and interesting restaurant with
façade (the top half is unfinished) of a large dome and four apses, the an emphasis on local seasonal food
San Fortunato (open daily) looms over church (built 1508–1607) is an and a good selection of local wines.
Via A Ciuffellii 33, 06050; 075 894 5448;
an imposing set of marble steps. Its impressive architectural confection. www.panevinotodi.com; closed Wed
huge, airy Gothic interior contains an ª Follow signs out of town west
exquisitely carved walnut choir towards Orvieto. The road runs downhill
(1590) – engraved with the town and joins the SS448, following the Top left Todi (left) and the Church of Santa
symbol, an eagle – and high pulpits course of the Tiber to Lago di Corbara. Maria della Consolazione (right) Below Vines
which enabled the Franciscans to growing beside man-made Lago Corbara
e Lago di Corbara
The Eagle of Todi Orvieto, Terni, Umbria; 05018
Legend has it that an eagle revealed When the south-flowing Tiber reaches
where Todi should be built. Long Todi, it turns sharply to the west
ago a tribe of Umbri, led by Tudero, towards Orvieto. It flows through
were feasting near the river when verdant, undeveloped countryside
an eagle swooped down and and scenic valleys. The road runs
seized the red cloth their meat was
arrayed upon. It flew off and dropped beside the river, providing picnic
the cloth high on top of a hill. This spots and photo opportunities. The
was interpreted as a sign from the artificial Lago di Corbara and a huge
gods to found a town there. The area of the surrounding land are part
eagle clutching the cloth is still the of the regional Parco Fluviale del
symbol of Todi and can be found Tevere (www.parks.it). The area is also
on the wall of the Palazzo dei Priori.
famous for its wine.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive instructions. Marmore and on to Piediluco
Easy day trips can be planned Lakes and waterfalls and back.
around activities such as skiing, Staying near Narni 7 provides many Following the Roman legions
walking or watersports. Evidence of choices for watersports enthusiasts. From Narni 7, follow the ancient Via
the Romans abounds for history buffs. Pottering around in a motor boat on Flaminia. From here the road is almost
Land of the Sabines the lake at Piediluco 5 is always a dead straight to San Gémini 8,
From a base in the Sabine town of relaxing way to spend an afternoon. another Roman outpost. Next, drive
Rieti 1 it is an easy drive to either For more thrills, Cascata da Marmore onto the ruins of Carsulae 9, where
Terminillo 2 or Leonessa 3 for 6 and the Nera River offers exciting the paving stones carry the marks of
summer walks and, in winter, for rafting, canyoning and kayaking. ancient Roman chariots.
snow sports. Access is good, as the Follow the drive instructions in Follow the drive instructions and then
roads are kept ploughed in winter. reverse from Narni to Cascata da back again to return to Narni.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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