Page 225 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 22: Lands of Myth and Legend 223

The Chronicles of Narnia prime commercial space in a city
This hugely popular series of books centre was as much sought after in
(1949–54) by CS Lewis is based in Roman times as it is today. Nearby,
part on the Classically educated the twin temples 5, next to the
author’s detailed knowledge of
ancient myths and legends. Some forum 6 indicate the traditional
literary scholars believe that a layout of the settlement. Proceed
map of early Rome in the author’s along the Via Flaminia in a northerly
possession is proof that he used direction to the Arco di San Damiano
the name of the Roman city for 7 – also known as Arco di Traiano.
his series, as Narnia had been This is an archway from the Augustan
underlined. For the Romans, Narnia
was an outpost on the edge of the era (1st century BC), built as a
known world, beyond which lurked symbolic northern entrance to the
all manner of mythical creatures, city. Just beyond the gate – and
strange beasts and weird peoples. outside the walls – there are three
large funerary monuments, similar Above The Arco di San Damiano, Carsulae, the
to those found outside Rome northern entrance to the Roman city
of field to an unmistakable stretch along the Via Appia. These ruins
of the Via Flaminia 3, made of give an indication of the importance EAT AND DRINK
large grey stones and rutted by of Carsulae. NARNI
the passage of countless carts and Heading back along the well-worn La Gallina Liberata inexpensive
chariots. Standing in the middle of Via Flaminia to the arch near the A simple restaurant offering home
this historic road, it’s easy to imagine forum, turn left through scattered cooking with no menu and no prices
the passing traffic through this once remnants of buildings. This is on display. Dishes vary daily.
important provincial town. believed to be the site of the city Vicolo Belvedere 13, 05035; 349 254
3515; www.lagallinaliberata.weebly.com
Slightly ahead and on the right- basilica, which was not a church but
hand side of the road stands the only an administrative centre and tribunal. La Loggia moderate
intact building on the site, the Only bits of the foundations remain. This excellent little restaurant
Church of Saints Cosma and Damian Beyond the basilica and a little specializes in southern Umbrian dishes.
4. This dates from the 11th century, further east are the amphitheatre Try the manfricoli pasta with fava
beans, Pecorino cheese and pancetta.
when a pre-existing building was and theatre 8, constructed in a Vicolo del Comune 4, 05035; 0744
converted to religious usage. The natural valley in the terrain. These 726 843; www.loggiadeipriori.it;
solid columns at the front come from two buildings played an important booking advised
the nearby Roman basilica and have part in the life of any Roman town Il Gattamelata moderate
been used to good effect to create a and reflect sporting obsessions still This old-fashioned restaurant
stylish loggia and entrance. Inside current today. The elliptical-shaped overlooking the square and Duomo
the church there are damaged amphitheatre was the scene of serves traditional food at reasonable
frescoes of saints. gladiatorial games and entertainments, prices. Worth it for a window seat.
Via Pozzo della Communità 4, 05035;
Opposite the church, the remains ranging from athletic competitions to 0744 717 245; www.ristoranteilgatta
of a tight cluster of buildings and brutal fights to the death. The theatre, melatanarni.com; closed Mon
shops at road level show how the which predates the amphitheatre, SAN GÉMINI
was for more cultural
events and both La Pecora Nera inexpensive
Funeral Bright and breezy osteria where the
Monuments buildings reflect the emphasis is on food and fun.
Arco di San Damiano
Roman ability to build Piazza San Francesco 2, 05029; 334
functional, safe and 882 4346
efficient buildings
for large numbers Below Via Garibaldi, a cobbled main street in
0 metres 150
of people. the town of Narni
0 yards 150 From the theatre, head
The Forum back to the car park.
ª From the car park,
Twin Amphitheatre
Temples and Theatre return to SP113 and
Church of Saints
Cosma and Damian then turn right.
Via Continue as SP113
Flaminia becomes SP420. At the
end of the street turn
onto SP316, then turn
Car Park Ticket Office right on SP416 and
continue into
Colpetrazzo town.

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