Page 244 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
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242 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


        VISITING URBINO
                               5 San Leo
       Tourist Information     Rimini, Emilia-Romagna; 61018
       Located just inside the main city gate.    This spectacular town enjoys the
       Via Vittorio Veneto, 4, 61029; 0541 964   reputation of being the most impreg-
       115; www.gradara.org
                               nable fortress in Italy, built as it is on a
        WHERE TO STAY IN URBINO  near vertical cliff. Settlement began in
                               the 8th century and its buildings are
       Hotel Raffaello moderate  variously Longobard, Romanesque
       In the very old part of town (ask for   and from the Renaissance. For many
       parking directions when booking), this
       old seminary has been transformed   years it was part of the Papal States,
       into a convenient, modern hotel.    and its impressive castle became a
       Vicolino Santa Margherita 40, 61029;   prison for miscreants such as Count
       0722 4784; www.albergoraffaello.com  Cagliostro, an infamous charlatan
       Albergo Italia moderate  and necromancer. It is now a lovely
       With smart modern interiors and    little place with two simple but
       a central location close to the lift and   beautiful Romanesque churches.  Emanuele II, with its red-brick Chiesa
       car park in Piazza Mercatale, this hotel
       makes a convenient city stopover.    ª From San Leo turn right towards   di Sant’Antonio Abate, sits between
       Corso Garibaldi 32, 61029; 0722 2701;   Carpegna. Turn right onto SP6 towards   the two forts. It is a charming town
       www.albergo-italia-urbino.it  Novafeltria/Maiolo – great views – do   of medieval streets and squares
       Albergo San Domenico moderate  not take right turn to Novafeltria but   bright ened up in summer by crimson
       Beautifully restored monastery   head down to the Marecchia Valley and   geraniums in terracotta pots.
       opposite the Palazzo Ducale, complete   SP285. The turn left to Pennabilli is on   ª Take SP1 to exit from town, then
       with cloister and Roman cistern, but all   a dangerous corner so carry on to the   turn left on SP84 towards Carpegna.
       modern conveniences as well.    roundabout and return. Park in town.
       Piazza Rinascimento 3, 61029; 0722
       2626; www.viphotels.it                          7 Carpegna
                               6 Pennabilli            Pésaro, Le Marche; 61021
       Top right Rocky outcrops of Simone and   Rimini, Emilia-Romagna; 61016  A brief heyday in the late Middle Ages
       Simoncello  Below left Fountain in Piazza   The two fortresses of Penna and Billi   gave Carpegna just one impressive
       Dante Aligheri, San Leo  Below right Façade   were joined into one in the 14th   building. Planned, but not built until
       of the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Abate, Pennabilli    century and the remains of the castles   1675, Palazzo dei Principi di Carpegna’s
       Bottom Countryside around Pietrarubbia,   are visible above the still united town.   main claim to fame is that it was used
       looking towards San Marino  The main square, Piazza Vittorio   to hide much of Italy’s art collection
                                                       during World War II. Carpegna is also
                                                       the headquarters of the Parco
                                                       Naturale Sasso Simone e Simoncello.
                                                       Sasso means “rock” or “stone” in
                                                       Italian, and the two rocky outcrops or
                                                       “sassi” are visible to the west on the
                                                       road into Carpegna. For infor mation
                                                       on walking or trekking, pop into the
                                                       Visitor Centre (Via Rio Maggio, Carpegna;
                                                       0722 75350; www.parcosimone.it).
                                                       ª Take SP1 east and follow signs to
                                                       Pietrarubbia. On a hairpin bend on the
                                                       right, a white road signed “Petrelle”
                                                       leads to the rock. Either drive or walk.
                                                       8 Pietrarubbia
                                                       Pésaro, Le Marche; 61023
                                                       A monumental outcrop suddenly
                                                       emerges on the road from Carpegna
                                                       to Pietrarubbia like a huge thumb
                                                       raised to the heavens – locals call it
                                                       the “Giant’s Finger”. Pietrarubbia itself is
                                                       a good place to survey the Montefeltro
                                                       region, from San Marino in the north-
                                                       east and the Adriatic to the Apennines.
                                                       The ruins of the medieval town and
                                                       castle on the hill above town can be
                                                       seen and visited from Pietrorubbia.
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


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