Page 246 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

244 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Where is Montefeltro? ª Exit following signs to Cattolica/
Stretching from the Marecchia Valley Gabbicce Mare – under the A14 – take
in the north to Pésaro and Urbino, a dogleg, then follow signs for Gabbicce
Montefeltro is today a loosely defined Mare/Centro. Follow Viale della Vittoria
area. It was originally a diocese under
Charlemagne, the first Holy Roman to the sea, then turn right into Via
emperor – its first bishop was Panoramica uphill to Gabbicce Monte,
appointed in AD 826. The family then Castel di Mezzo and the Parco
known as the Montefeltros began Naturale Monte San Bartolo.
their reign in Urbino in 1267, often
Above Colourful geraniums in terracotta pots clashing with the Malatesta family, w Castel di Mezzo
who rose to power in Verucchio in
are a feature of the towns on this drive 1239 and held the Rimini-Pésaro Pésaro, Le Marche; 61100
seaboard for the next 300 years. This is a tiny town in the centre of
the 10-km (6-mile) strip of greenery,
known as the Parco Naturale Monte
q Gradara San Bartolo (www.parcosanbartolo.it).
Pésaro, Le Marche; 61012 The green clifftops between Gabbicce
This spectacular fortified town dates Mare and Pésaro are a welcome relief
back to the 12th century and was from the long strips of organized
gradually encased in a double line of lidos to the north, stretching as far
medieval walls. The castle is now the as Trieste. The Parco Naturale Monte
Museo Nazionale della Rocca (closed San Bartolo offers numerous walking
Mon pm). Superbly preserved, it is a trails and leisure activities. Castel di
fantasy fortress of crisp crenellations, Mezzo itself is little more than a church,
towers and bastions (it is also said to a restaurant and a few houses, but
be the location of the love story in the town is certainly worth a quick
Dante’s Divine Comedy). Gradara buzzes stop for a short clifftop walk or a
with daytrippers and events in leisurely meal looking out to sea.
summer. In the early evening, once ª Carry along the Strada Panoramica
the coach parties have gone, taking Adriatica to Fiorenzuloa di Focara.
WHERE TO STAY
a walk around the castellated walls Parking can be difficult but there are
GRADARA is a great way to admire the sunset. generally spaces along the road.
La Loggia di Gradara Relais moderate
Combining the ultra modern and the
ancient, this tiny hotel is both unusual
and interesting. As parking is outside
the walls, guests are driven to the hotel
in an electric car. Try for a balcony room.
Via Dante Alighieri 2, 61012; 0541 964
154; www.laloggiagradara.it
FANO
Hotel Orfeo inexpensive
The Orfeo is a small family-run hotel
near the historic centre and makes a
good base for exploring the city. They
also have an excellent restaurant.
Corso Matteoti 5, 61032; 0721 803 522;
www.hotelorfeo-fano.it
Siri Hotel moderate
On the main road into town, this ultra-
chic modern hotel is well situated for
both the beach and the historic centre.
There’s a shuttle to the private beach.
Viale Buozzi 69, 61032; 0721 802 593;
www.sirihotelfano.it

Above Countryside around the fortified
city of Gradara Bottom left Gradara’s pretty
town centre, popular with daytrippers
Bottom right Bas reliefs above the doorway
of the Chiesa di San Michele, Fano

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