Page 245 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 24: Montefeltro Mountains 243

Far left Well-defended Sassocorvaro, set high
on a hill Left The turrets and towers of
Urbino, a centre of learning during the
Renaissance Below The “Giant’s Finger” rock
formation on the road to Pietrarubbia

ACTIVITIES IN MONTEFELTRO
For horse-riding, try the Centro Ippico
Montefeltro (Via Provinciale,
Carpegna; 0722 77696). For details
of organized treks, contact Sistema
Turistico Urbino e Montefeltro (Via
Pucinotti 33, Urbino; 0722 320 437;
www.urbinoeilmontefeltro.it).
EAT AND DRINK
ª From the “Giant’s Finger” take SP1 attracted painters, architects and
towards Pietrarubbia. SP1 becomes the mathematicians from far and wide. SAN LEO
SP6 near Sassocorvaro, then SP3bis and The huge Palazzo Ducale, which Osteria Belvedere moderate
SP37/SP67. There is plenty of parking. houses the Galleria Nazionale delle This cosy restaurant offers fine alfresco
Marche (closed Tue pm), dominates the eating – try prosciutto di Carpegna and
Piadina approach to Urbino from the south. local cheeses with marmellata (fruit jelly).
Via Tosselli 19, 61018; 0541 916 361;
The piada or piadina is the perfect The fairytale quality of the turrets that www.belvederesanleo.it
gastronomic symbol for the area frame the duke’s private quarters belies
and has been rather overlooked in the strength of an undefeated military Hotel Ristorante Castello moderate
favour of the pizza. Pellegrino Artusi power. The courtyard is a masterpiece With tables on the main square, this is
(1820–1911) – the first writer to gather the spot for a coffee, an aperitif, a light
together recipes from all over Italy of the Greek and Roman humanist snack and a bit of people watching.
in one cookbook – didn’t deem it ideals that would become hallmarks of Piazza Dante 11/12, 61018; 0541 916
214; www.hotelristorantecastellosanleo.
worth an entry. But, properly made, the Renaissance. In its day, the palace com; closed Thu in winter
the warm, round flatbread, filled was the largest building in Europe.
with prosciutto crudo and stracchino The gallery’s most famous works URBINO
cheese is paradise on a plate. are Piero della Francesca’s enigmatic Il Cortegiano inexpensive
The Flagellation (c.1460), often cited Close to the Palazzo Ducale, this
as the world’s greatest small painting; restaurant provides quick snacks or
9 Sassocorvaro The Ideal City, a perspective study proper dining in the courtyard.
Pésaro, Le Marche; 61028 attributed to Piero or his students; and Via Pucinotti 13, 61029; 072237307;
www.ilcortegiano.it; closed Sun–Tue eve
The road to Sassocorvaro passes first the gorgeous La Muta (1507) by
through the pretty market district of Raphael. The duke’s private study is La Trattoria del Leone moderate
This popular place in the historic
Mercatale with views of the castle lined with finely worked wood panels centre is fairly small so booking
above and the lovely artificial lake. In and the servants’ quarters and kitchens is recommended.
the heart of Sassocorvaro, the chunky below stairs are worth seeing to Via Cesare Battisti 5, 61018; 0722 329
fortress La Rocca Ubaldinesca (open understand how the other half lived. 894; www.latrattoriadelleone.it
daily) is a fine piece of 15th-century Across the square from the palace Vecchia Urbino moderate
defensive architecture. Its remote is the Cattedrale di Urbino. Founded This restaurant serves delicacies such
location and solid design meant it was in 1062 but often rebuilt, it has an as truffles and porcini, as well as more
never breached in earlier centuries, 18th-century Neo-Classical façade. adventurous dishes – testina di agnello
alla brace (chargrilled lamb’s head).
and during World War II it was used Near the Piazza della Repubblica, Via dei Vasari 5, 61029; 0722 4447;
to hide many of Italy’s art works – it is Casa Natale di Raffaello (open daily) has www.vecchiaurbino.it; closed Tue
now a museum. At the other end of been preserved since the 19th century
the street there are pleasant views as a monument to the painter Raphael
over the Fiume Fóglia lake, below. and retains its evocative atmosphere.
ª Head out of town on Via Roma SP Nearby the Oratories of San Giovanni
67. Follow signs to Urbino on SS73bis. and San Giuseppe (open daily) have
Follow the road around town to Piazza frescoes by the Salimbeni brothers
Mercatale, for underground parking. (c.1416). Blending International Gothic
with a more natural approach, they are
0 Urbino an exciting foretaste of the Renaissance.
Le Marche; 61029 ª Follow signs to Perugia/Pésaro
This enchanting city flourished under on SP423; drive toward Pésaro to
the patronage of Duke Federico da Montecchio, then turn left on SP 38
Montefeltro (1422–82). His university towards Gradara. Park in front of castle.

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