Page 247 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 24: Montefeltro Mountains 245

EAT AND DRINK
to Fano on SS16 along the seafront. At
Fano, the road bends to the right and GRADARA
becomes Via Bruno Buozzi. Park here. Il Bacio moderate
Dine under the shady mulberry tree
r Fano in warm weather, and enjoy this
Pésaro, Le Marche; 61032 restaurant’s delicious specialities.
Although Fano has plenty to offer as Via Roma 8; 0541 964 620;
a beach resort, it is also a working www.ilbacioristorante.it
town with a history going back to the Mastin Vecchio moderate–expensive
Roman era. That said, the impressive Just off the main street, Mastin Vecchio
has a lovely courtyard for summer
Arco di Augusto is virtually all that dining and offers cheaper (osteria) or
remains from ancient times. Close by more traditional (ristorante) options.
the arch is the Porta Maggiore, built Via Alighieri 5, 61012; 0541 964 024;
in 1227, but equally ravaged by time. www.mastinvecchio.com
Down the same street – once the AROUND CASTEL DI MEZZO
Love Story Roman main road – is the Cattedrale Bar Panoramic inexpensive
Dante Aligheri (1265–1321) was the Santa Maria Assunta (open daily). It has On the road just beyond Gabicce
first great Italian poet to immortalize been restored many times, but retains Monte, this friendly bar has superb
the tragic tale of Paolo and Francesca. its plain Romanesque exterior and views and cheap drinks.
Paolo was the handsome brother of contains medieval sculptures and Via Panoramica 47, 61011; 0541 830 439
the deformed Giovanni Malatesta. other works of art by Renaissance Taverna del Pescatore moderate
Francesca’s father knew she would artists. The small Chiesa di San Michele This excellent fish restaurant has
refuse Giovanni in marriage, so it was a perfect clifftop position.
arranged for Paolo to perform the was built in 1494, and the bas-reliefs Castel di Mezzo 23, 61100; 0721 208
vows. Paolo and Francesca fell in love, above the doorway date to 1511. 116; www.tavernadelpescatore.it;
but when Giovanni caught them closed lunch Tue & Wed
embracing he murdered them both FANO
in the family castle at Gradara.
Casa Nolfi Ristorante moderate
Inside the Hotel Augustus, this is one
of Fano’s best seafood restaurants.
e Fiorenzuola di Focara Casa Nolfi specializes in brodetto
Pésaro, Le Marche; 61100 Fanese, the excellent local fish soup.
On a sunny day, this tiny fortress town Via Gasparoli 59, 61032; 0721 809 781;
can get crowded as it is a starting evenings only, closed Sun
point for the trek to the stunning Osteria Mocambo moderate
beach below. It still has the classic This popular local fish restaurant near
the port has a top reputation and serves
elements of a hill town and the old great paella, which is unusual in Italy.
entrance gate and walls remain. Viale Carioli 135, 61032; 0721 170
Fiorenzuola was originally part of a 6171; closed Wed, booking advised
defensive coastal network and a
primitive lighthouse in medieval times. Top left The unspoiled clifftop reserve of Parco
ª Continue along Strada Panoramica Naturale Monte San Bartolo Left The medieval
Adriatica to Pésaro, then follow signs Porta Maggiore, Fano

DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take SS72 from Rimini to San Marino to Take a break from blue to green
There are some great days out to be the top car park. Return the same way. From the lively beach resort of Fano
enjoyed in Montefeltro, for families, r, enjoy a change of pace by driving
art lovers, activity enthusiasts and Renaissance and rocks to the peaceful, green, clifftop oasis
those looking for a relaxing time. Spend the morning touring the of the Parco Naturale Monte San
Palazzo Ducale at Urbino 0, the city Bartolo. Stop for strolls at pretty
A family day from Rimini was the birthplace of Raphael and, in Fiorenzuola di Focara e and Castel
The resort of Rimini 1 – with its its heyday it was a centre for the best di Mezzo w, climbing down the
Roman remains – is a great starting minds of the time. Enjoy lunch before cliff to the lovely beach for a swim.
point for a tour inland to San Marino heading to Sassocorvaro 9 to see Visit romantic Gradara q and stay
4. Take a walk up the tiny republic’s its sturdy castle, then drive to the for a drink as the sun sets.
steep streets with stunning views. “Giant’s Finger” at Pietrarubbia 8 for
Next stop is San Leo 5 and its a walk in the beautiful countryside. Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse,
formidable clifftop fortress. Return to from Fano to Gradara. If time is of the
Rimini for some relaxing beach time Retrace the drive’s instructions from essence, return via the A14. If not, take
and a cooling dip in the sea. Urbino to Pietrarubbia, and back. SP47 back to the coastal road to Fano.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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