Page 253 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche 251

EAT AND DRINK
archway, make the main square,
Piazza Leopardi, look like it should LORETO
be the setting for an opera. During Ristorante Andreina expensive
festivals held here in October, they At chef Errico Recanati’s popular
make sughitti, a sweet polenta cake restaurant, enjoy great pasta dishes
made from wine mosto (must), such as tagliolini al tartufo (truffles)
and tagliatelle alla lepre (hare).
maize flour and local walnuts. Via Buffolareccia 14, 60025; 071 970
ª Continue on SP361. At a major 124; www.ristoranteandreina.it; closed
junction, there’s a sharp left on to SP77, Tue & Wed lunch
past Roman ruins at Helvia Recina. SIROLO
Stay on SP77 to Villa Potenza, then Trattoria Osteria Sara moderate
SP37 to Macerata. Park in Piazza A small, characterful osteria in the
Mazzini (except Wed market day). centre of town, where the fish is fresh
and cooked simply. Try risotto di mare or
6 Macerata home-made tagliatelle with white fish.
Above Piazza Mazzini, Macerata, home of the Macerata, Le Marche; 62100 Via Italia 9, 60020; 071 933 0716;
closed Wed
weekly market When the Visigoths destroyed the
Roman town of Helvia Recina in AD OSIMO
4 Montefano 408, the people moved to the hill De Gustibus moderate
Macerata, Le Marche; 62010 above. By the 12th century, Macerata Modern wine bar and restaurant in the
The imposing tower of the Castello had established itself and eventually historic centre. Plenty of local wines to
di Montefiore is visible long before became the provincial capital. choose from and a traditional menu
with a contemporary twist.
reaching Montefano. Little remains Famous today for open-air opera at the Piazza del Comune 11; 071 714 450;
of the original polygonal castle built Sferisterio, the town has a lively historic closed Sun
in the 14th century, except some of centre. Along Corso Matteotti, there MONTECASSIANO
the walls and the keep. The tower are a number of Renaissance palazzos,
withstood the artillery onslaught of the most striking being the Palazzo Nuovo Bar Centrale inexpensive
Underneath the loggia of the Palazzo
six centuries of wars, but was damaged dei Diamanti. The street leads into dei Priori, this is a good place for a
in World War II. Now restored, it is the architecturally jumbled Piazza restorative drink or snack.
used as a summer concert venue and della Libertà. Its jewel is the small but Piazza Unità d’ Italia 16, 62010; 0733
can be explored. Nearby Montefano perfectly formed Loggia dei Mercanti 290 479
is a pretty little town very typical of (1505), a fine example of Renaissance MACERATA
this part of Le Marche. harmony. The tenor Beniamino Gigli La Volpe e L’uva moderate
ª Take SP361 to Montecassiano. Turn (1890–1957) once serenaded the Enjoy good wine and top cuisine such
right onto ring road, Viale Giovanni town from the loggia’s balcony after a as quagliette con pancetta e salvia arrosto
XXIII. Park near one of the town gates. performance at the Sferisterio in 1930. (quails roasted with bacon and sage).
ª From the parking on Piazza Mazzini Via Berardi 39; 0733 237 879;
Rosso Conero turn right on Sferisterio and take Corso www.volpeeuva.it
Red wines from the Monte Conero Carioli south from round about. Then
region have been highly regarded turn right around the city walls towards
in Italy since ancient times; illustrious Via Roma/SP77and continue on SP77. Below left Passageway in the catacombs
Roman authors Pliny the Elder (AD At Sforzacosta, follow brown signs to beneath Osimo Below Porta Amando Diaz
23–79) and his nephew Pliny the abbey on SP78; ample parking. on the west side of Montecassiano
Younger (AD 61–112) both praised
the wines of this area to the south of
Ancona. Today’s “Rosso Conero” wines
are strong, full-bodied reds. The main
grape is Montepulciano, to which a
small percentage of Sangiovese can
be added. This inexpensive, readily
available wine benefits from ageing.

5 Montecassiano
Macerata, Le Marche; 62010
With medieval walls and three robust
gateways, Montecassiano is a set-
piece historic village. The swallow-
tail battlements of the Palazzo dei
Priori, the loggia below, and the
spire of the Collegiata di Santa Maria
Assunta (open daily) behind the

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