Page 256 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

254 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

0 metres 200
Ponte Solestà VIA TREBBIANI 0 yards 200
Piazza V Basso Tronto VIALE VELLEI PONTE
VIA SOLESTÀ
VI A DELLE STELLE
Torre
VIA DEI
VIA DELLE
Tronto VIA DEI SODERINI Ercolani DONNE V IA CAIROLI VIA F. TAMBURIN I LUNGOTRONTO BARTOLOMEI NUOVO
LONGOBARDI
VIA MANILA DEI FILODRAMMATICI VIA DELLA TORRI
CORSO DI SOT T O RUA LUNGA Museo dell'Arte VIA DEGLI STUDI Galleria d’Arte VIA DEL TRIVIO VIA DELL E CANTERINE VIA TITO AFRANIO VIA SACCONI
Ceramica
Contemporanea
VIA DEL
E TRIESTE
POZZETTO
CORSO TRENTO
VIA DEI SABINI
San Francesco
CORSO MAZZINI Piazza San CORSO MAZZINI Chiesa di C O R S O M A Z Z I N I
Agostino
Piazza del
DELLA
Porta VIA TEMPLARI PIAZZA
Romana VIA DELLA FOR TEZZA VIA PANICHI Popolo Piazza VIOLE
San Giovanni
Piazza Arringo Battistero di
V I A D I N O A N G E L I N I
Roma VIA XX SETTEMBRE Duomo di
V I A F R AN CE S CO RI CCI
Above The medieval festival of Quintana, held Pinocoteca Saint Emidio
Civica
in Ascoli Piceno ‘s Piazza del Popolo in August VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO Diocesano
VIA DEI CONTI
VIALE D E LLA RIMEMBRANZA
VIA DI VE S TA
WHERE TO STAY VIAL E DELLA FORTEZZA PIA VIALE PACIFIC MAZZ O NI VIA PR E TORIANA LUNGO CASTELLANO SISTO V Museo
ASCOLI PICENO Car Park
Palazzo Guiderocchi moderate
This central, venerable building offers e Ascoli Piceno
elegant rooms, Wi-Fi and a restaurant Le Marche 63100
The annexe also has good-value rooms.
Via Cesere Battisti 3, 63100; 0736 259 Originally a defensive site at the confluence of two rivers, Ascoli grew
710; www.palazzoguiderocchi.com to prominence in the Middle Ages. Although it is often said to have
the most beautiful piazza in Italy, what gives Ascoli its elegant charm
RIPATRANSONE
Hotel Piceno inexpensive is the fact that virtually every building is made of travertine marble.
This friendly hotel run by the Picceri
family represents good value for money. A three-hour walking tour hailed by many as the most beautiful
Via G Leopardi 12, 63038; 0735 9418; From the car park 1, walk across the piazza in Italy. One side is lined by
www.hotelpiceno.eu
wooden bridge and take the lift to the Caffè Meletti, an elegant Liberty-style
GROTTAMMARE city level. To the left there is a narrow bar, and the other by a fine arcade
La Torretta sul Borgo inexpensive lane into Piazza Arringo 2, the topped by swallow-tailed battlements.
This friendly B&B in the old part of town scene of many political speeches. Also on the square is the Gothic
is a modern amenity with a historic feel. At the eastern end is the Duomo di Chiesa di San Francesco, notable for
Via Camilla Peretti 2, 63013; 0735
736 864; www.latorrettasulborgo.it Saint Emidio (open daily), home to a its ribbed vaulting, a statue of Pope
polyptych by the 15th-century artist Julius II over the door and the Loggia
Below Ripatransone, viewed through a Carlo Crivelli. Beside the Duomo stands dei Mercanti, a 15th-century addition.
Gothic gateway into town the Battistero di San Giovanni (open Also of interest is the 13th-century
daily). Built in the 12th century, over a Palazzo dei Capitani, whose central
Roman temple, this beautiful building clocktower and façade are decorated
has a square base and an octagonal with reliefs and statues.
upper storey. The Palazzo Vescovile Head west along Corso Mazzini
on the other side of the Duomo to Piazza Sant Agostino 5 and its
houses the Museo Diocesano (open 13th-century Romanesque church.
Mon-Fri am, Sat & Sun pm) with a fine Across the square, Palazzo Merli’s
collection of religious art. In the twin towers recall a time when Ascoli
Palazzo Comunale, with its Baroque bristled with over 100 of them.
exterior, is the Pinocoteca Civica with Continue along Corso Mazzini. At the
15th- and 16th-century works by back of Sant’Agostino, the cloisters of
artists such as Crivelli, Titian, Reni, the old convent house the Galleria
Guercino and other masters. D’Arte Contemporanea 6, with a large
Exit the piazza by Via XX Settembre collection of modern Italian art. Turn
to Piazza Roma 3, a formal square right from the gallery, then left into
with palms and an imposing bronze Corso Mazzini to Piazza San Tomaso
statue commemorating the city’s war- and the Museo dell’Arte Ceramica 7.
dead. Turn right and cross the square Cross the square to Via del Pozzetto,
to either Via Panichi or Via Macello. turn left (back to Corso Mazzini) and
Both lead to Piazza del Popolo 4, finish at the 1st-century Porta Romana.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
250-255_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 254 21/09/17 11:17 am