Page 255 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
P. 255

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche  253


           Cistercian Architecture
        The Cistercians were a monastic
        order that evolved in France in the
        12th century. They believed that
        people of faith should live simple
        lives of hard work and prayer, and
        saw decoration as a diversion from
        spiritual matters. As a result, they
        built large, plain and elegant
        buildings. The Cistercians were
        great conservationists who built in
        remote locations, and after the
        drastic deforestation of the 10th
        and 11th centuries, developed
        systems of managed agronomy.

       0 Sarnano
       Macerata, Le Marche; 62028
       Built almost entirely from brick,                Above left Montefortino, set among towering
       Sarnano still retains its medieval   q Montefortino  peaks  Above Brick-built Sarnano, a good
       streetscape and ambience. From   Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63044  base for exploring the Sibillini Mountains
       Piazza Alta, at the top of the town,   Dating back to the Roman era,
       the view of the terracotta roof tiles   this town gave its name to a type
       and the valley spread out below is   of helmet worn by the Roman
       enchanting. The square, eerily quiet   legions. Porta Santa Lucia is the
       for Italy, is sometimes called “the    main entrance to the narrow streets
       silent square” as there are no bars or   of the town. Palazzo Leopardi (Jul–
       restaurants. The town’s main public   Aug: open daily; winter: Sat pm & Sun) is
       buildings, the Palazzo del Popolo,   a small museum known as the Little
       the Palazzo dei Priori, the Palazzo dei   Louvre of the Sibillini. It contains
       Podestà and the Chiesa di Santa Maria  a fine collection of Renaissance
       Assunta (open daily) all date from the   art, including works by Perugino,
       late 13th century. The tiny ski resort   Carracci and others.
       of Sassotetto (www.sarnanoneve.it) is    ª Return to SP83, heading south to
       a 20-minute drive away, offering   Montemonaco. Turn right at the sign   EAT AND DRINK
       Alpine and cross-country skiing.  for the town and park in Piazza Roma.
       ª Continue south on SP78 through                 URBISAGLIA
       Amándola, turning right on SP83 to   w Montemonaco  Locanda Le Logge inexpensive
       Montefortino. Park just outside town.  Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63048  This restaurant is highly regarded
                                                        by the locals and offers a fixed-price
                               At 1,080 m (3,540 ft), Montemonaco   gourmet menu of Marchegiana
       Below View from San Ginesio, in the foothills   has clear, sharp air, fantastic views   specialities. Booking advised.
       of the Monte Sibillini  and even a few medieval corners to   Corso Gianelli 34, 62010; 0733 506788;
                               explore. To the east, the view extends   www.locandalelogge.it
                               across a large swathe of Le Marche to   SAN GINESIO
                               the Adriatic. Walk uphill along Via   Terra Nostra inexpensive
                               Italia, and past the small 13th-century   Home-made pasta and desserts make
                               Palazzo Comunale. Continue to the   this cosy central eatery a good choice for
                               Chiesa di San Benedetto (open daily),   local specialities such as wild boar and
                               which holds a relic of the right arm   porcini. The menu also offers
                                                        Argentinian dishes.
                               of the saint encased in silver and a   Piazza Gentili 3, 62026; 0733 656 957;
                               polychrome wooden crucifix from   www.terranostrasanginesio.it
                               the late 15th century. Walk along the   MONTEMONACO
                               path to the Parco Monteguarnieri,
                               with breathtaking mountain views.  Bottega della Cuccagna inexpensive
                                                        This place offers a mouthwatering
                               ª Retrace route on SP83 and follow   selection of cheeses, salamis, wines
                               signs to Ascoli Piceno, turning right on   and other local delicacies. Just buy
                               SP74, left on SP86, then right on SP237   a picnic lunch to eat outside. The
                               to the Via Salaria SS4. Exit to Ascoli   adventurous might want to stay at
                               Piceno and follow signs to “Centro”.   their refuge on the mountainside.
                                                        Via San Lorenzo, 63048; 0338 469
                               Turn right at Via Adriatica and sharp   5073; www.bottegadellacuccagna.it;
                               left at Via Porta Torricella for car park.   closed Wed
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


   250-255_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd   253                         21/09/17   11:17 am
   250   251   252   253   254   255   256   257   258   259   260