Page 257 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche 255

Turn right into Corso di Sotto, which t Acquaviva Picena
leads into Via dei Soderini. This part of Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63030
town has a medieval feel. Continue to The medieval fortress that still forms
Via Dei Lombardi and one of Ascoli’s the heart of this town dominates
oldest towers, Torre Ercolani 8. The the hillside to the west. Known as La
road leads to Via delle Stelle, along Rocca, it houses an ancient weapons
the city walls above the River Tronto. museum – the Museo delle Armi
A bit further on is one of the ancient Antiche (summer: open Tue–Sun). The
bridges into Ascoli, Ponte Solestà 9 walk through its ancient corridors
built in the 1st century. The gateway and the view from its battlements
and towers were built in the 13th are worth the price of entry.
century. Turning away from the river, ª Return along SP1 north, then turn
walk up Via Solestà, then left into Via right on SP32. Park in town.
delle Donne, which opens into Piazza
V Basso 0. Here, the Romanesque y Ripatransone
Chiesa dei SS Vincenzo e Anastasio Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63038
has a façade divided into sections that On the highest point between the sea
once held frescoes of biblical scenes – and the mountains, Ripatransone had
it was called “La Bibbia dei Poveri” (the an advantage over its rivals. This is
Bible of the Poor). Continue along what generated the wealth that built
Via Cairoli and turn right into Via del the Palazzo del Podestà (1304) and
Trivio. On the right and behind San the Palazzo Comunale, which holds
Francesco is the old cloister, now documents in its archive dating back Above The tiled roof of the Chiesa di Santa
used for markets and performances. to 1216. Both buildings are in the main Lucia, Grottammare, looking out to sea
Turn right into Corso Mazzini and square, Piazza XX Settembre, known
retrace steps back to the car park. as the Belvedere del Piceno because EAT AND DRINK
ª Viale Indipendenza is the main road of its excellent views in all directions.
east, becoming SP235 to the coast. Turn ª Take SP23 to Grottammare. At the ASCOLI PICENO
left to Offida on SP43. Park in square. fourth hairpin bend, turn left into Via Migliori inexpensive
Cagliata. Park on the edge of town. This lively venue on Piazza Arringo
r Offida serves all the local delicacies, including
olive Ascolane – olives stuffed with
Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63035 u Grottammare meat, coated in breadcrumbs and
On the approach to Offida, the Chiesa Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63013 fried – as a takeaway snack.
di Santa Maria della Rocca appears as Originally built as a defensive bastion Piazza Arringo 2, 63100; 0736 250 042
though floating on the cliff face. The against raids from the sea, this tiny Cafe Lorenz moderate
church has an impressive Romanesque medieval fortress town now keeps Like Florian’s in Venice but not as costly.
façade. The crypt (open daily) runs the watch over legions of holiday-makers Attentive service, and a great location.
full length of the church and contains on the beach below. The town has Open late. Good for a drink or a meal.
Piazza del Popolo 5, 63100; 0736 259
14th-century frescoes attributed to two churches, a ruined fort with curvy 959; www.ristorantelorenzcafe.it
the Maestro di Offida. The centre of corbels and an excellent vantage
town is Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II, point over the coast below. The GROTTAMMARE
given an elegant air by the arcades of Chiesa di Santa Lucia (open daily) is at Osteria dell’Arancio moderate
14th-century Palazzo Communale, a the northernmost tip of the old town. This well-regarded restaurant caters for
handsome building with a clock tower. The Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista discerning diners with good fish and
meat dishes and excellent wines.
ª Head east on SP1, follow signs for now houses the Museo Sisto di Piazza Peretti 1; 0735 631 059;
Acquaviva Picena. Park near town walls. Grottammare (summer: open Mon–Sun). evenings only; closed Wed
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take SP16 to Osimo, then SP361 to Follow the drive’s instructions.
There are three distinct sections Montefano. SP82 , then SP77 to Loreto. Ascoli Piceno to the sea
to this drive: the lowlands, the Spend the morning touring Ascoli
mountains and the coast. Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
San Ginesio 9 is a good base from Piceno e, pick up some food and
The lowlands around Loreto which to explore the national park. follow the drive to Ripatransone y –
From Renaissance Loreto 1, it is a Drive to Sarnano 0 to visit the ski stopping for a scenic picnic along the
short drive for history buffs to Osimo resort Sassotetto, either for skiing in way. Head on to for Grottammare u
3 with its Roman fountain and walls winter or walking in summer. Head on for some time on the beach.
and labyrinth of catacombs. A visit to to Montefortino q for Renaissance Follow the drive’s instructions, missing
the tower of Montefano 4 will art, then on to Montemonaco w out Acquaviva Picena. Return via A14
intrigue budding military historians. for a short climb and great views. and RA11, if pressed for time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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