Page 36 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

34 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

4 Biella bogs are home to many flower species,
Biella, Piedmont; 13900 which attract clouds of butterflies.
At the heart of “Textile Valley”, Biella ª Go north, signposted Champdepraz,
is famous as a major centre for high- turn right at SR6, left at SS26 towards
quality wool and yarn production, Aosta and follow signs to Fénis.
and Italian designer names such as
Zegna and Loro Piana have close Piedmontese fare
links with the town. More than 50 Local cuisine matches robust flavours
factory outlets line the industrial with French flair, reflecting the area’s
approach roads – many of which are relationship with the House of Savoy.
on the SS230 – look for spaccio on The woods, especially near Alba, are
signs, meaning “outlets”. There are truffle- and mushroom-rich and any
also outlets in Biella (see right). The dish with salsa di tartufi bianchi will
town has a compact, attractive be delicious. Bagna cauda is a warm
dip made with oil, anchovies, garlic
centre and highlights include the and cream. Blue gorgonzola is the
Renaissance basilica and cloister of best-known cheese – dolce (creamy)
St Sebastian, with lovely frescoes or piccante (crumbly). Look for soft
inside. A funicular goes up to the cheeses, too, such as caprino (goat),
beautiful medieval village of Piazzo. fontina (cow), and raschera (a com-
ª Head southwest, then take the bination of cow’s and either goat’s
SS338/Via Ivrea and turn right on or sheep’s milk). Fondue (fonduta) is
often made with fontina – delicious
the SS419. Fork right on SP73, then with Alba’s white truffles.
the SP72 to the SS26 before turning
Above The fortress Il Melograno, Issogne, off on to the SR4 to Issogne.
originally built in 1480 6 Fénis
5 Issogne Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11020
Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11020 The most famous and spectacular
The Valle d’Aosta is full of castles and of all the castles in the Valle d’Aosta
medieval forts. Many were fort resses, is the Castello di Fénis (Apr–Sep, open
while others were more palatial, such daily; Oct–Mar: open Tue–Sun). Set on
as Il Melograno (closed Wed). More a grassy knoll, backed by a chestnut
château than fort, it is named for the forest, it is every inch a fairytale
WHERE TO STAY fountain in the court yard, which has a medieval castle, bristling with towers
pomegranate tree (il melograno) of and turrets, keeps and crenellations.
AOSTA iron. Restored over the years, the Its origins date to the 13th century,
Duca D’Aosta moderate palace has frescoes of 15th-century but what is visible today is largely
Set in the heart of the old town, this street life, along with period furniture the 1340 creation of Aimone de
comfortable hotel albergo is both
elegant and welcoming. Its 63 rooms and arti facts. Nearby, the village Challant, who belonged to a noble
are decorated to a high standard and Champdepraz (just north on the A5) family linked to the Savoys. The castle
there is a pleasant restaurant. is the access point for the Parco has a pentagonal layout and the
Piazza Narbonne 8, 11100; 0165 23 63 Naturale del Mont Avic (Apr–Sep: open keep is enclosed by a double
63; www.alpissima.it
daily; Oct–Mar: closed Mon; www.montavic. perimeter wall, with watchtowers
AROUND AOSTA it), whose lakes, marshes and Alpine linked by a walkway. The inner
Agriturismo l’Arc en Ciel inexpensive
This working farm has five pleasingly
furnished rooms. Home-grown
produce is served in the fine restaurant.
Extremely good value. Frazione Vert 5,
Sarre, 11010 (leave Aosta on Via des
Régions and follow signs to Frazione
Vert, 7 km/4 miles west); 0165 25 78 43;
www.agriturismolarcenciel.it
COGNE
La Madonnina del Gran Paradiso
inexpensive–moderate
A family-run, welcoming hotel set in a
panoramic position on the
mountainside with its own spa. Its 30
rooms are clad in pine and there is a
warming, wood-burning oven in the
restaurant. Via Laydetré 7, 11012; 0165
740 78; www.lamadonnina.com Above The remarkably well-preserved Castello di Fénis, watching over the Valle d’Aosta
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

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