Page 37 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 1: In the Shadow of the Alps 35

courtyard has a semi-circular staircase
and wooden balcony, decorated with
exquisite frescoes of St George killing
the dragon and a group of wise men
and prophets holding scrolls. There
is also a small museum of local
furniture inside.
ª Take the SR13, then turn left on to
the SS26 west to Aosta. There is a car
park at Piazza Arco d’Augusto.
7 Aosta
Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11100
Named after Emperor Augustus,
Aosta was once a mini-Rome in the
centre of its own valley; today it is
the regional capital. The triumphal Above left Near the Parco Nazionale del Gran
Arco d’Augusto now sits on a traffic ª Leave Aosta on the SS26 and Paradiso, Cogne Above Bikes – a favourite
island and from it runs the Roman Via bear left on to the SR47 heading way to explore Aosta’s national park
Sant’ Anselmo, a pedestrian precinct. south to Cogne.
To the right, outside the city walls, is EAT AND DRINK
an impressive series of ancient 8 Cogne
church buildings around the Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11012 AOSTA
Collegiata di Sant’Orso (open daily), This is an excellent base for exploring Vecchio Ristoro expensive
dedicated to the patron saint of Italy’s first national park, the beautiful This Michelin-starred restaurant is
Aosta. Sant’ Orso itself has a Gothic Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. centrally located and combines rustic
(15th-century) façade, a 12th-century Originally a Savoy hunting reserve, charm with an elegant dining
experience. The chef, Alfio Fascendini,
Romanesque bell tower and an 21 sq km (5,200 acres) were donated is a master of innovation and seasonal
elegant cloister. At the end of the by King Vittorio Emanuele lll in 1929 specialities such as wild mushrooms.
Via Sant’Anselmo, where all kinds of to form the present park. Today, it Via Tourneuve 4, 11100; 0165 33 238;
souvenirs can be purchased – from is home to the endangered ibex, www.ristorantevecchioristoro.it; closed
cuckoo clocks to local gourmet as well as to numerous chamois, Sun, Mon lunch & Jun
delights – is the Porta Praetoria, the marmots, ptarmigans and golden COGNE
two thick, arched walls forming the eagles. Maps of the footpaths and Lou Ressignon
impressive stone entrance to the city. routes are available from the visitor moderate
Inside, on the right, lie the remains of information centre (Via Bourgeois 34, Well-established family-run inn
a Roman theatre. Just to the north, 11012; 0165 740 40). A path meanders specializing in authentic Valdostano
specialities. At weekends, music
accessed through the Convento di south to Valnontey, where the complements feasting. Also has rooms.
San Giuseppe, is the Amphitheatre Giardino Alpino Paradisia (1st Sat Rue des Mines 22, 11012; 0165 74 034;
(open daily). In the old town, the Jun–1st Sat Sep: open daily) has a fine www.louressignon.it; closed Mon eve &
Duomo in Piazza Giovanni XXlll dates collection of more than 1,000 species Tue in low season
from the 12th century and contains of Alpine flora. The best time to see Bar a Fromage moderate
some of the best Christian art these is from late-June to mid-July. Splendid little restaurant with a warm,
treasures from the area in the Museo ª Head northwest on SR47, then turn intimate atmosphere where cheese is
definitely king. Visitors can also buy
del Tesoro (open daily). Next to the left on to the SS26. This road becomes some excellent produce in the shop.
Duomo is the Roman Forum with a the Avenue du Géant (Champex) Rue Grand Paradis 21, 11012; 0165 74
supporting arcade (cryptoporticus). leading into Courmayeur. 96 96; reduced hours in low season
SHOPPING IN BIELLA
While there are many outlets just out-
side town, within Biella itself is Fratelli
Cerruti (Via Cernaia 40; closed Sun),
selling discounted men and women’s
classic clothes, and cashmere specialist
Piacenza (Via talia 32; closed Mon)
Far left Glorious Romanesque fresco in Aosta’s
cathedral Left A salumeria (delicatessen) full
of treats on Via Sant’Anselmo, Aosta

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