Page 38 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

36 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Nearby La Thuile (reached via the
SS26) was once a mining area and is
now a picturesque skiing and hiking
town, and more of a family resort
than chic Courmayeur. In summer
chairlifts allow access to heights of
2,400 m (7,900 ft) for some
spectacular walking and trekking.
ª Take the SS26, entering France on
the D1090. Turn on to the D84, then
take D902 past Val d’Isère, followed by
the D1006 to Col du Mont Cenis (use the
Above Climbers traversing an icy path in the Fréjus tunnel in winter).
mountains, Courmayeur Above right Museo 9 Courmayeur
Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi, Courmayeur Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11100 q Col du Mont Cenis
In the majestic shadow of Monte Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis, 73480; France
Bianco (Mont Blanc), Courmayeur is a Col du Mont Cenis (Cenisio in Italian)
VISITING COURMAYEUR
popular year-round resort and a joy is a 2,084-m (6,831-ft) high mountain
Parking to explore. The main hub, Via Roma, pass in the Alps on the French-Italian
There is a large car park by the cable is traffic free and full of designer shops border. It was an important invasion
car to Plan Checrouit, on the southern and gourmet gems. The Museo route and Napoleon I built a road
edge of town. Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi (Piazza there in 1810. It is also believed by
Visitor Information Abbé Henry 2; 0165 842 064; closed Wed some to have been Hannibal’s pass
Piazzale Monte Bianco 8, 11100; 0165 morning) tells tales of dramatic moun- when he marched his army and
842 060; www.regione.vda.it/turismo tain rescues. Just north of Courmayeur elephants over the Alps against Rome
at Entrèves, a cable car leads to Punta during the Second Punic War (218–
Helbronner – at 3,462 m (11,360 ft), 203 BC). The picturesque Lac du Mont
WHERE TO STAY
the views are literally breathtaking. Cenis is frozen usually until the end
ª Take the SS26 to Pré-Saint-Didier. of May. The Jardin Alpin (open daily)
COURMAYEUR has more than 120 flower species.
Hotel Auberge de la Maison 0 Pré-Saint-Didier ª Take the D1006 south. Enter Italy on
moderate
Warm and welcoming, this homely Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 07021 the SS25, then take the SS24 to Exilles.
mountain hotel and restaurant is At just over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) high,
rustically decorated. There are 33 the picturesque town Pré-Saint-Didier w Exilles
individually designed rooms, together is famous for its warm thermal waters. Torino, Piedmont; 10050
with a sauna, solarium and Turkish The spring is at a constant 36°C (98°F) Overlooking the Valle di Susa, the
baths. The restaurant is noted for its
excellent food and service. at the point where the River Thuile little medieval town Exilles is spec-
Via Passerin d’Entreves 16, 11013 (4 forces its way through the narrow tacularly located and dominated by
km/ 7 miles north of Courmayeur); gorge into the Dora Valley. There is a splendid fort. Exilles Fort (Via degli
0165 869 811; www.aubergemaison.it a well-known spa in the town, Terme Alpini; 0122 58270; closed Mon) is not only
Grand Hotel Royal e Golf expensive Pré-Saint-Didier (0165 867 272; open one of the oldest monuments in the
Set on the main street of Courmayeur, daily). The waters are said to have valley, but also a great example of
this prestigious hotel is noted for its detoxifying, toning and anti- military architecture. A fort has kept
charm and good service. There is a inflammatory properties. watch over this passage between
small wellness centre with swimming
pool and solarium and splendid views
of Monte Bianco. There is also a very
pleasant restaurant.
Via Roma 87, 11013; 0165 831 611;
www.hotelroyalegolf.com

Right Lac du Mont Cenis on a key invasion
route in Italian history Far right The Italian
skiing village of La Thuile
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

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