Page 39 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 1: In the Shadow of the Alps 37

France and Italy since the 12th
century, although what is visible today
is mainly from the 19th century. It is
said that from 1681–87, the “Man in
the Iron Mask”, a prisoner whose face
and identity remain a mystery to this
day, was incarcerated within these
walls. Many have theorized as to his
identity, most famously Alexandre
Dumas, who postulated that he was
Louis XIV’s identical twin. Highlights
include the Knights’ Courtyard and
the Staircase of Paradise leading to Above left The honeycomb façade of the
the Prison Courtyard. The fort’s r Castello di Rivoli 4th-century Porta Savoia, Susa Above The
museum charts its long history and Rivoli, Piedmont; 10098 fort of Exilles, strategically located in the Valle
the story of Italy’s Alpine troops. Set on a hill with splendid views, this di Susa Below In the Museo d’Arte
From the roof there are splendid castle was one of the Savoys’ country Contemporanea, Castello di Rivoli
views of the upper Valle di Susa. residences. It is an imposing Baroque
ª Head back northeast on the SS24. building bearing the classical French
trademark style of master architect
e Susa Filippo Juvarra. Inside, the Museo
Torino, Piedmont; 10059 d’Arte Contemporanea (closed Mon)
Known in Roman times as Segusium, has works by Gilbert and George and
Susa is a pretty mountain town with Jeff Koons, while Maurizio Cattelan’s
much evidence of its earlier existence. stuffed horse is suspended from the
In the old town, at Piazza Savoia, the ceiling – making a dramatic and
Porta Savoia gateway dates originally inspiring contrast between modern EAT AND DRINK
from the 4th century AD, although it and ancient. The museum often has
was reconstructed in the Middle Ages. excellent temporary exhibitions SUSA
There is also a Roman amphitheatre and there is a good café, as well Zizi
(open daily), aqueduct arches and the as the highly acclaimed cuboid This shop offers free tastings and
low-price local alcoholic beverages.
remains of some Roman baths. The Combal.zero restaurant. Established in 1945, it draws
remarkably well-preserved marble customers from all over the area.
triumphal Arco di Augusto (Arch Corso Inghilterra 52, 10059; 0122 622
of Augustus) was built in the 1st 717; www.zizi-susa.com; closed Sun
century BC by Gallic chieftain Cottius CASTELLO DI RIVOLI
to commemorate the alliance with Combal.zero expensive
the ruling Romans. In the medieval Michelin-starred restaurant in the
historic centre, the Romanesque Museo d’Arte Contemporanea,
Cattedrale di San Giusto (open daily), fea turing classic Piedmont dishes,
but with very creative twists –
dating from the 12th century, has a variant of molecular gastronomy
lovely frescoes and a fine campanile. – under the expert eye of chef
The town is noted, too, for its shops Davide Scabin. This is where
full of gourmet delights. traditional meets ultra-modern.
ª Head north, turn right on to SS25, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea,
Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, 10098;
signposted Avigliana, then Rivoli. 011 956 5225; www.combal.org;
Follow signs to car park at Castello. closed Mon & Sun
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Madama, as well as the other Art and castles in paradise
For visitors based in Turin, the first architectural and historical sights of Based in Aosta 7, take a trip to the
trip makes a good day out, while for the city. Then head out to the grand fairytale castle in Fénis 6. Next,
those based in Aosta, the amazing hunting lodge Palazzina di Caccia di head to Cogne 8 to visit the Parco
mountain scenery is easy to explore. Stupinigi 1 and the magnificent Nazionale del Gran Paradiso for an
Castello di Rivoli r – filled with invigorating walk among breath-
Baroque architecture tour thought-provoking modern art. taking scenery.
In Turin 2, see the beauty of the
work of the great Baroque architect Head south on the SS23 to Stupinigi. Aosta is located on the SS26. For Fénis,
Filippo Juvarra (1678–1736) in the Then take the E70 north (Tangenziale take the SS26 and SR13. To reach Cogne,
façade and staircase of the Palazzo Sud) turning left on to the SP7 to Castello. take the SS26 and then the SR47.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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