Page 49 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 47

for Valdieri and Terme di Valdieri on
SP22 which turns into the SP239.
There is parking beyond the baths.
r Terme di Valdieri
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12011
This pleasant spot in the Valle Gesso
was a popular summer retreat for
Italian aristocracy in the 19th century.
Set in the Parco delle Alpi Marittime
(www.parcoalpimarittime.it), it’s a good
base for trips into the mountains –
get a map from the visitor centre (Jun–
Sep: open daily) or simply relax and
take some of the algae or sulphur
treatments. Don’t miss a wander Above View of Dronero and its 15th-century
through the Giardino Botanico ª Return to Valdieri on SP22 and Ponte del Diavolo
Alpino Valderia (mid-Jun–mid-Sep: continue to Borgo San Dalmazzo to
open daily), where the confluence of take SS20 to Cuneo. Follow signs for EAT AND DRINK
mountain and marine climates has Torino to the roundabout just after STROPPO
produced over 400 species of plants. the hospital. Take the third exit, go
ª Retrace the journey here, turning straight over the next roundabout Locanda Codirosso
inexpensive–moderate
right for Entracque before Valdieri. into Lungostura Kennedy and park at Offering views of the Maira Valley, this
Bypass Entracque village by taking first the Piazza Foro Boario on the right. restaurant serves traditional dishes
right, signposted San Giacomo. Bear featuring locally sourced ingredients.
right at Ponte di Rovine for the Lago y Cuneo Homemade dessert and craft beers..
Frazione Ruata Valle 8, 12020; 380 533
della Rovina. Park (paid) by the lake. Cuneo, Piemonte; 12100 3955; www.codirosso.it; closed Nov–
The university town of Cuneo, Apr; booking advised
t Lago della Rovina wedged between the Gesso
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12019 and Stura rivers, has a purposeful, CUNEO
The drive climbs gently through the bustling air and is a good base for Osteria della Chiocciola moderate
mountains to the Parco del’Argentura exploring many parts of Piedmont. The first-floor restaurant serves great
specialities such as ravioli ripieni di
and ends at Lago della Rovina, popular The historic area of town lies to castagne (ravioli stuffed with chestnuts)
with fishermen. It’s impossible to miss the west of the wide 19th-century and vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce).
the looming ENEL hydroelectric streets. The Museo Civico (closed Mon) Via Fossano 1, 12100; 0171 66277; www.
pumping station (tours available), the traces local customs and costumes osteriadellachiocciola.it; closed Sun
largest in Italy at San Giacomo. Take and displays prehistoric, Roman Arione moderate
a gentle hike through the woods and medieval artifacts. Strolling The local delicacy is Cuneesi al rhum –
around the lake, or make a full day through the town, look out for a kind of bittersweet chocolate truffle
made with rum. Ernest Hemingway
of it and head over the ridge to Lago tempting displays of chestnut stopped by to try it in 1954.
del Chiotas and Lago Brocan. Look sweetmeats and Castelmagno Piazza Galimberti 14, 12100; 0171 692
out for marmots, chamois and eagles. cheese from the mountains. 539; www.arionecuneo.it
DAY TRIP OPTIONS glorious countryside from here. before reaching Sampeyre 9, where
It is possible to make a circular tour Then aim for the village of Barbaresco the Museo Etnografico is worth a
from Alba to appreciate the excellent 1, another good vantage point, visit. Drive on through spectacular
food and wine of the Langhe especially in the golden evening mountain scenery to the villages
vineyards and the hilltop villages. light, before returning to Alba. of Elva 0 and Stroppo q. Here,
The stunning mountain scenery and admire the frescoes in the churches
wilderness is easily reached from ª From Alba take SP3 to Barolo, then before returning through the
Saluzzo or Cuneo. SP3 and SP58 to La Morra. Head verdant Valle Maira through Dronero
eastwards to Grinzane Cavour and e and back to Saluzzo.
Vineyard tour pick up SP3 through Alba, aiming for
Based in Alba 2, head for the Località Altavilla and Barbaresco, ª From Saluzzo take SP589 to
wonderful wine museum WiMu at returning to Alba by SS231. Verzuolo, then SP8 through Piasco to
Barolo 4, which will set visitors up Sampeyre. From here, head up to the
for La Morra 5, a town with great Mountain and valley greenery Colle di Sampeyre and down on SP335
views over the rolling hills and Drive at a leisurely pace through the to Stroppo. Follow SP422 to Dronero,
vineyards. Take a walk through the lovely Valle Varaita from Saluzzo 8, then SP589 to Saluzzo.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate €25–€45; expensive over €45

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