Page 62 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)
P. 62

60 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


                                                       ª From Como, head north on SS340,
                                                       the lakeside road signposted for
                                                       Cernobbio. Through the village and
                                                       past the luxury hotel Villa d’Este,
                                                       branch off onto the SP71 or Via
                                                       Vecchia Regina.
                                                       2 Vecchia Regina: the SP71
                                                       Como, Lombardia
                                                       This narrow, winding road shows Lake
                                                       Como in all its splendour. Running
                                                       along the water’s edge, the route
                                                       weaves past private jetties, glorious
                                                       retreats and splendid gardens built
                                                       by European aristocrats and wealthy
                                                       industrialists over the last few hundred
       Above View from behind Bellagio out over Lake   years. Villa owners have included opera
       Como to Varenna  Below left Church of the   1 Como  composer Vincenzo Bellini, fashionista
       Madonna del Soccorso overlooking Menaggio   Como, Lombardia; 22100  Gianni Versace and, recently, Hollywood
       Below right Inside the Church of the Madonna   The comfortable provincial town of   film star George Clooney. Most of the
       del Soccorso at the Sacro Monte di Ossuccio  Como sits on the southern tip of the   traffic takes the faster SS340, away
                               western arm of Lake Como. It is best   from the lake, so drivers on this road
        VISITING COMO          enjoyed by wandering the cobbled,   are free to enjoy the views, stop to
       Parking                 criss-crossing grid of narrow lanes,    explore the little hamlets or peek
       Follow signs to a central multi-storey car   a reminder of its Roman origins, and    into the celebrity-owned gardens.
       park rather than look for an expensive   by taking in the lake vistas from    ª Rejoin SS340, just before Brienno,
       roadside space with jacketed attendant.  the promenade or on the hill above   and continue north to Ossuccio. Turn
       Tourist Information     town in Brunate (see p63). An ancient   left to the Santuario just after a bend
       Via Pretorio, 22100; 031 304137; www.  silk-producing town, Como is a good   in the centre of the village. Park at the
       visitcomo.eu; closed Mon
                               place to shop for silk products.   end of the road in the little square at
                                In the main piazza, close to the    the bottom of the grassy footpath.
        WHERE TO STAY          harbour, the Duomo is a pleasing mix
                               of Gothic and Renaissance styles with   3 Sacro Monte di Ossuccio
       COMO                    a Baroque dome. Next door is the   Como, Lombardia; 22016
       Del Duca moderate       medieval broletto (market hall) built   Set in the folds of the hills above
       This comfortable three-star hotel has   in striped marble. Around the corner,   the lake, the Sacro Monte di Ossuccio
       en suite air-conditioned rooms and a   the strong lines and functional style   is one of a series of UNESCO-
       good-value restaurant, Le Colonne.
       Piazza Mazzini 12, 22100; 031 264 859;   of the Casa del Fascio, completed in   recognized Sacred Mountains built
       www.albergodelduca.it; closed Jan  1936 by architect Giuseppe Terragni,   across Northern Italy in the 17th cen-
                               is one of the finest examples of   tury. Climb up through olive groves,
       AROUND MENAGGIO         Rationalist architecture in the country.  past 14 chapels – each containing
       La Marianna inexpensive-moderate
       This inviting family-run hotel has eight
       traditional rooms, most with lake views.
       Via Regina 57, Cadenabbia di Griante,
       22011 (on SS340, 3 km/2 miles south
       of Menaggio); 0344 43 095;
       www.la-marianna.com
       Regina Teodolinda expensive
       Set in lovely grounds, this carefully
       restored villa is serene, luxurious and
       has its own small swimming pool.
       Via Vecchia Regina 58, Laglio,
       22010 (on SS340, 21 km/13 miles south
       of Menaggio); 031 400 031;
       www.villareginateodolinda.com
       BELLAGIO
       Belvedere expensive
       This hotel offers lake views, gardens, a
       pool, spacious rooms and parking too.
       Via Valassina 31, 22021; 031 950 410;
       www.belvederebellagio.com; closed
       Nov–Easter
       Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


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