Page 63 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 4: Como’s Villas and Villages 61

Above left Elegant Villa Balbianello, built in
painted life-size plaster figures in you can hire bikes from most hotels. 1787 on Lake Como Above centre Life-size
scenes from the Bible – to the Church In the village centre, Piazza Garibaldi statue in Chapel V of the Sacro Monte di
of the Madonna del Soccorso. It is a offers some of the best restaurants Ossuccio Above Como’s Piazza San Fedele,
wonderful retreat from the lakeside and an attractive promenade leads the site of law courts in Roman times
hustle and bustle, with superb views down to the lido.
of the water at the top of the steep ª There is a ferry station in Menaggio
1-km (half-a-mile) long path. for the traghetto to Bellagio (or return VISITING BELLAGIO
ª Follow the road back to the SS340 3 km/2 miles on SS340 to Cadenabbia). Parking
and continue north for 1 km (half a The centre of Bellagio is car-free so use
mile), then follow signs to the parking the spaces on the edge of the village.
Limited free spots (green paint) are
on the right. available around the communal
gardens up the hill from the ferry
4 Villa Balbianello station. Otherwise, the blue pay-and-
Lenno, Como, Lombardia; 22016 display bays are the only option. Some
One of many sumptuous lakeside hotels have special deals for parking.
villas, 18th-century Villa Balbianello
(mid-Mar–mid-Nov: open Tue & Thu– EAT AND DRINK
Sun) stands on a verdant promontory COMO
with lovely views across the lake to the
Grigne mountains. Paths lead down Castiglioni Gastronomia inexpensive
This family-run delicatessen offers
from the delightful loggia through mouthwatering home-made pasta,
beautiful terraced gardens to the salamis and cheeses, and serves a
water. Film buffs might recognize the Above Palm-lined lakeside promenade, or good-value lunch in a pretty courtyard.
location from Star Wars: Episode II lungolago, in the heart of Menaggio Via Cesare Cantù 9, 22100; 031 263
388; www.castiglionistore.com
(2000) and Casino Royale (2006), parts
of which were filmed here. The house 6 Bellagio La Colombetta expensive
contains a small museum to its last Como, Lombardia; 22021 Simple, elegant dining rooms provide
the backdrop for Sardinian-inspired
owner, the explorer and mountaineer On the tip between the two arms of fish specialities, often including
Guido Monzino and his Chinese, Lake Como, pretty Bellagio has been home-made pasta, accompanied
African and pre-Columbian art. attracting visitors for centuries. The by good Italian wines.
ª Continue north on the SS340 to village centre is a criss-cross of steep, Via Diaz 40, 22100; 031 262 703;
Menaggio and its roadside, town- stepped lanes lined with boutiques, www.colombetta.it; closed Sun
centre parking. The road gets very hotels, eateries and several handsome MENAGGIO
crowded on this section. villas and gardens. The 17th-century Il Ristorante di Paolo moderate
Villa Serbelloni, a Rockerfeller institute, Excellent food served in a relaxed
5 Menaggio is closed to the public, but its formal and elegant atmosphere. The staff are
Como, Lombardia; 22017 terraced gardens can be visited on a helpful about the good wine list.
Lakeside Menaggio is more a working guided tour (mid-Mar–Oct: open Tue– Largo Cavour 5, 22017; 0344 32 133;
www.ilristorantedipaolo.it; closed Tue
village than a resort. It is a great base Sun). The Neo-Classical Villa Melzi (end
for enjoying strolls, hikes and cycle Mar–Oct: open daily) has an orangery BELLAGIO
rides in the surrounding area and and a Japanese garden. From town, Silvio moderate
there is even a good golf course – it’s a half-hour stroll to the fishing ham- The simple, refined meals based around
set up by four British visitors in 1907; lets, Loppia (west) or Pescallo (east). the freshest fish – often caught by
Silvio or his son – and magical lake
the tourist office (Via Lusardi 26, ª Leave the car in Bellagio and catch views make this place a treat.
22017; 0344 364 11; www.menaggio. one of the regular ferries to Varenna. Via Carcano 12, 22021; 031 950 322;
com) has maps and information and Tickets available at the ferry terminal. www.bellagiosilvio.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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