Page 64 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

62 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Right The grandiose lakeside frontage of Villa
Cipressi, Varenna Far right Varenna’s village
centre backed by a steep mountainside
Below Spectacular view of Lake Como from
Castello di Vezio

7 Varenna
Lecco, Lombardia; 23829
VISITING VARENNA
Set on the eastern shore of Lake Como and backed by steep mountains,
Tourist Information Varenna is a sleepy fishing village that sparkles in the afternoon sun.
Via IV Novembre 7, 23829; 341 830 367; The castle on the hillside above is said to be haunted by a 7th-
www.varennaturismo.com
century queen, Theodolinda, and in the 12th century, the village
itself was involved in bloody wars with its bigger neighbour, Como.
WHERE TO STAY A two-hour walking tour signs through tiny lanes, past the
The short ferry crossing from Bellagio Piazza della Chiesetta di Sant’Antonio
VARENNA is possibly the most romantic way to Abate, named for its tiny 16th-century
Hotel Milano moderate arrive in Varenna. Head uphill from the church, and through an olive grove
This stylish hotel is centrally located,
with a good restaurant, great lake ferry station 1 to the main road. Turn to the 13th-century Castello di Vezio
views and charming owners. right and cross over to where the 2 (Mar–Oct: open daily), which offers
Via 20 Settembre 35, 23829; 0341 830 signposted path to the castle begins, stunning views, lawns and ruined
298; www.varenna.net next to the Hotel Ristorante Monte towers. There are falconry displays at
Hotel Du Lac expensive Codeno. A 15-minute walk up this very the weekend and an outdoor trattoria
Tucked in a quiet corner of the village, stepped mountain path leads to Vezio, serving good, local specialities.
this comfortable hotel offers spacious an ancient hamlet of stone houses Return to the little piazza in front of
bedrooms. There is a shaded waterfront
bar and breakfast is served outside. whose conquest by the Romans in the church, from where a panoramic
R R A D O V E N I N I 0 metres 200
Via del Prestino 11, 23829; 0341 830 238; 196 BC is described by the Roman path, called the Scabium, runs back
www.albergodulac.com author Pliny the Younger. Follow the down to Varenna. From the church,

Ferry 0 yards 200
Station V I A C O
Via Riva Dei Marmisti

Walkway
VI A 20 S E T T E M BR E V I A C O R R A D O V E N I N I Castello di Vezio Vezio

Contr ada Garibaldi
San Giovanni
Battista Piazza San Giorgio
Contrada Del
Villa
Molo Di Sotto
Cipressi Villa V I A R O M A
Monastero
V’ALE G. POLVANI
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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