Page 65 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 4: Como’s Villas and Villages 63

turn right, if facing the church, and Italy-wide cycle race, Giro d’Italia.
then right again after a 90-degree turn. Next door there is a specialist
Continue along, under a stone bridge, museum with bicycles and Giro-
and take the signposted right fork winners’ pink jerseys, donated by
downhill. A few minutes’ steep walk Italy’s cycling greats. From the
or drive, accompanied by glorious Romeo Belvedere nearby there are
views, leads to the main road into unbeatable views of the eastern arm
Varenna. Turn right and cross over to of the lake and the Grigne mountains.
the luxuriant terraced gardens and ª Continue south along the SP41.
museum at the 17th-century Villa
Monastero 3 (open mid-Mar–end 9 Valassina and Above Monument to cyclists at Santuario
Oct, Jan–Feb: Sun), built on the site of Pian del Tiviano della Madonna del Ghisallo Below Steep
a 13th-century Cistercian monastery. Como, Lombardia; 22030 alleyway between the houses of Varenna
The rooms are grandly decorated Crossing this rural corner of the lake
and the garden’s avenues and takes drivers along winding lanes EAT AND DRINK
terraces are shaded by cypress, through chestnut woods and VARENNA
oleander and citrus trees. medieval hamlets. At Colma, Il Castello di Vezio inexpensive
Turn left out of the villa there is an astronomical This informal al fresco restaurant serves
and pop into the splendid observatory and great views in lake fish, grilled meats and their own
garden with its relaxing three directions. Head towards organic vegetables and olive oil. Wash
viewpoint at the hotel next the lake across the bowl of the it all down with local Valtellina wine.
Vezio, 23828 Perledo, Lecco; 3334 485
door, Villa Cipressi 4. Pian del Tiviano, which is 975; www.castellodivezio.it; open Mar–
Left out of Villa Cipressi carpeted with narcissi, lilies Nov daily 10am–7pm; reservation
leads into Varenna’s main Falconry display at of the valley and bluebells needed for evenings
square, Piazza San Giorgio Castello di Vezio in springtime. Here, the Il Cavatappi moderate
5, with its 13th-century road switchbacks down to Reservations are needed at this tiny,
parish church and the 10th-century Nesso, a pretty lakeside village. intimate place. The dishes are excellent
chapel of San Giovanni Battista 6, ª Drive along SP41, turn right onto and include local lake-fish specialities.
There is also a good list of local wines.
which has excellent frescoes. From SP44 signed Sormano, carry on for 19 km Via XX Settembre 8, 23829; 0341 815
here, head down into the grid of cool (12 miles) till Nesso. At SS583 turn left 349; www.cavatappivarenna.it; closed
lanes to Varenna’s waterfront cafés. to Como 16km (10 miles). Follow signs Mar–May & Oct–Dec; Wed Jan – Feb
Walk past the tiny harbour on the left to the funicular and nearby car park.
and continue along the walkway 7
back to the ferry station and Bellagio. 0 Brunate
ª Leave Bellagio on SP41 (see below), Como, Lombardia; 22034
which winds for 5 km (3 miles) up to Catch the funicular up to Brunate
Magreglio. Park near the sanctuary. (every 15 min from 6am till 10:30pm;
Jun–Aug: till midnight) to finish the
8 Santuario della drive with some more spectacular
Madonna del Ghisallo views of the lake. The steep 6-minute
Bellagio, Lombardia; 22030 ascent passes attractive 19th-century
The Madonna del Ghisallo has been villas and their gardens to the summit
the patron saint of cyclists since 1949 where a small Art Nouveau resort
and this sanctuary is a very popular offers a few restaurants and cafés as
destination for two wheelers; it is well as strategically sited places to
often on the route of the annual drink in the lake views one last time.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS Drive north from Como on SS340, wooded valleys to the lake road
Several parts of this drive would branching off on to SP71 and up and back to Bellagio or Como 1.
make comfortable, varied day to the Sacro Monte di Ossuccio, then Leave Bellagio on SP41, take winding
trips – with or without the car. return via SS340 to Menaggio. SP44 and then SS583 to reach Como.
Villas and views Back roads from Bellagio Ferry-hopping tour
After exploring the lanes of Como Head away from the bustle of Bellagio Leave the car in Bellagio 6 and take
1, follow the lake road past splendid 6 on this back route to Como, the ferry (www.my-lake-como-holiday.
villas. Take a detour to walk up to which heads up to the Santuario com) to Lenno/Villa Balbianello 4.
Sacro Monte di Ossuccio 3 for della Madonna del Ghisallo 8, Return to Bellagio for lunch, then hop
panoramic views, before ending up in dedicated to the patron saint of onto the ferry to Varenna 7 to see
Menaggio 5 for a swim at the lido. cyclists, before winding through the town and Castello di Vezio.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

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