Page 85 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 7: From the Lake to the Plains 83

prehistoric rock carvings in the woods
inland. It is also home to one of the
oldest limonaie, or lemon tree
glasshouses, on the lake. South of the
village’s network of quiet cobbled
lanes lies a pleasant shingle beach.
ª Take the main SS249 south to
Bardolino. Parking in the centre is easy.
4 Bardolino
Verona, Veneto; 37011
This pleasant resort has a medieval
warren of lanes and the frescoed
9th-century Romanesque Chiesa di
San Severo. Away from town, the soft Above left Cafés and shops close to Piazza
rolling hills of Cavaion Veronese are 6 Sirmione Vittoria, Salo’s main square Above Lake view
carpeted with vineyards and olive Brescia, Lombardia; 25019 from Il Vittoriale
groves. The tourist office lists routes This historic town on a promontory
to oil and wine producers, and the jutting into the waters of Lake Garda EAT AND DRINK
Museo del Vino (closed Nov–mid-Mar) is guarded by a mighty 13th-century SALÒ
gives an insight into the history of castle, the Rocca Scaligera (closed Ristorante 100km expensive
these key local industries. Plus, the end Mon). The café-lined lanes lead north The contemporary restaurant in Hotel
products can always be sampled at the to the ruins of a 1st-century Roman Bellerive serves locally sourced creations.
resort’s many enoteche and restaurants. villa, the Grotte di Catullo (closed Via Pietro da Salò 11, 25087; 0365 520
ª Take SP31 (Via Croce) out through Mon), set among olive trees on the 410; www.hotelbellerive.it; closed
Nov–mid-Mar
the vineyards, turn right on Strada lake’s edge. Visitors since Roman
Villa. Carry straight onto Strada Tre times have been drawn by the spa TORRI DEL BENACO
Contrè, turn right on SP31, through waters (tourist office has details). Trattoria Bell’Arrivo moderate
Calmasino, follow signs left to Lazise. ª Follow signs south for Brescia, By the little harbour, this trattoria is a
Turn left for pay-and-display car parks. then follow signs to SP13 to Milan. cosy spot for tasty, good-value food.
Piazza Calderini 10, 37010; 045 629 9028;
The tower is just beyond the village. closed Mon (Mar–May & Oct) & Nov–Feb
5 Lazise
Verona, Veneto; 37017 7 San Martino della Battaglia SIRMIONE
A popular tourist town, Lazise’s Brescia, Lombardia; 25010 La Rucola expensive
ancient centre is enclosed within A long spiral ramp leads up to the Enjoy the fish in this smart restaurant
near the castle. Ideal for a treat.
beautiful medieval walls. Next to panoramic terrace at the top of this Passaggio Strentelle 7, 25019; 345 619
the small port stands the Dogana frescoed tower (closed Mon), built in 5728; www.ristorantelarucola.it; closed
Veneta, the customs house used memory of those who died fighting Jan & Feb, Thu & Fri
to tax goods on the lake during during the Risorgimento, the move- SAN MARTINO DELLA BATTAGLIA
Venice’s 400 years of rule. Next door, ment for Italian unification. In 1859, Osteria alla Torre moderate
the small Romanesque church of San during the wars of independence This friendly place offers old-fashioned
Nicolò holds 13th-century frescoes. from Austria, these hills saw some of cooking – try the home-made pasta.
ª Take SR249 south to Peschiera del the bloodiest battles in history. On Via Torre 1, 25015 ; 030 910 8261;
Garda. Drive through the town centre, 24 June, during the Battle of Solferino, www.osteriaallatorre.it; closed Thu
following signs to SR11 and Sirmione. 40,000 men were killed or injured in
Park outside the walled town. one day. A Swiss businessman, Henry Below Colourful boats moored at Torri del
Dunant wit nessed the carnage and Benaco on Lake Garda
Mussolini’s Republic of Salò saw the local people helping the
In November 1943, Mussolini and wounded, regard less of nationality.
Hitler made a last-ditch attempt to His suggestion of creating a neutral
rally Fascist Italy against advancing hospital corps to help during wartime
Allied troops by establishing the led to the founding of the Red Cross
Italian Social Republic of Salò. Villas in 1863. There is also an ossuary and a
and palaces on Lake Garda became
ministries, while Mussolini and his museum here, display ing love letters,
family lived in Gargnano. The bloodied uniforms and tattered flags.
Republic limped on ineffectually ª Follow SP13 to Pozzolengo, then
until Italian liberation on 25 April SP18 towards Monzambano. Turn left
1945; three days later Mussolini onto SP74 (Strada Moscatello), then right
was executed by partisans on onto SP19 (towards Volta Mantovana).
Lake Como.
Turn left onto SP3 to Vallegio sul Mincio.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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