Page 87 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 7: From the Lake to the Plains 85

Above left Parco Giardino Sigurtà, Valeggio
Across the square, the Duomo 3 Round the corner, Piazza Mantegna sul Mincio Above Shady cafés and arcades in
has an 18th-century façade and its holds more cafés and Mantua’s most Mantua’s Piazza delle Erbe
interior was reconstructed from the important church, Sant’Andrea 7,
Gothic original by Giulio Romano in begun in 1472 by Leon Battista Alberti.
1545. Leave the piazza through the Home to Andrea Mantegna’s tomb,
southern arch with the red-brick the barrel-vaulted interior houses two EAT AND DRINK
Torre Della Gabbia on the right, vases said to hold the blood of Christ.
where people were punished by Head south along Via Roma and MANTUA AND AROUND
being hung in a cage and left to die. across Piazza Marconi to the canal La Loggetta inexpensive
In Piazza Broletto, the façade of the where, on the left, a small covered The fantastic ice-cream served here
comes in a variety of flavours to reflect
13th-century Palazzo del Podestà 4 bridge is part of the Fish Market 8 the seasons. It also serves vegan ice-
has a statue of local Roman poet Virgil. built in 1536 by Giulio Romano. Fork cream, milkshakes and granite.
Duck left down Via Accademia to left down Via Principe Amadeo, into Piazza Broletto 12, 46100; 0376
look into the 18th-century Teatro Via Acerbi, where the temple-like Casa 181 2866
Scientifico Bibiena 5 (mid-Nov–mid- del Mantegna 9 was lived in briefly Due Cavallini moderate
Mar: closed Mon; visit tourist office for by the artist and now holds exhibitions. Good-value traditional cooking served
concert details). Opened with a recital Across the road, the deconsecrated by welcoming staff in a rustic dining
room or walled summer garden. The
by Mozart in 1770, the theatre still Tempio di San Sebastiano 0, built by ravioli alla zucca is highly recommended.
performs work by Monteverdi, the Alberti in 1458, is now a monument to Via Salnitro 5, 46100; 0376 322 084;
Mantovan father of opera, and puts Mantovans fallen in war. www.trattoriaduecavallini.mantova.it;
on productions of Verdi’s opera Cross busy Viale Risorgimento to closed mid-Jul–mid-Aug & Tue
Rigoletto, which is set in the city. perhaps the city’s greatest treasure, Dal Pescatore expensive
Return to the covered arcade on the Palazzo Te q (closed Mon am), an Set in a country house, a 40-minute
Piazza Broletto and head left past island retreat for Federico Gonzaga and drive from Mantua, this family-run
elegant shops into Piazza delle his mistress Isabella, designed by Giulio restaurant – with three Michelin stars –
serves unforgettable, innovative meals
Erbe 6 and the 13th-century Romano and completed in 1535. The in an elegantly relaxed atmosphere.
Palazzo della Ragione. The square palace is a world of frescoes with a Località Runate 15, Canneto sull’Oglio,
is dominated by the Torre peaceful lawned garden. The Sala di 46013; 0376 723 001; www.dal
dell’Orologio with its astronomical Amore e Psiche is awash with erotic pescatore.com; closed Mon & Tue
clock dating from 1472. Visit frescoes while the Sala dei Giganti, Il Cigno dei Martini expensive
Mantua’s oldest church, the pretty with its paintings of falling columns, In an elegant dining room overlooking
11th-century Rotonda di San appears to be collapsing around you. a beautiful garden, well-judged cooking
is matched by impeccable service.
Lorenzo, discovered in 1908 during Head back in a straight line northeast Piazza d’Arco 1, 46100; 0376 327 101;
the dismantling of the Jewish ghetto on either Via Giovannic Acerbi or Via www.ristoranteilcignodeimartini.com;
that had grown around it. Nazario Sauro to the car park. closed Aug, Mon & Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow driving instructions to Il Vittoriale Follow driving instructions from Sirmione
Visitors are spoilt for choice when it and Torri del Benaco, and then back. to San Martino and Valeggio, then return.
comes to days out near Lake Garda.
War and peace Town and country
Family day Visit the Roman remains at Sirmione Spend the morning exploring the
Based in Salò 1, tour Il Vittoriale 2, 6, then drive to San Martino della majestic architecture of Mantua 9 –
then cruise across the lake on the car Battaglia 7 to climb the tower, a the Castello, palazzos and piazzas. Buy
ferry to Torri del Benaco 3, where memorial to the war dead. Head to a picnic, then take the cycle path or a
you can eat well, explore the village, Valeggio sul Mincio 8, home of boat (visit the tourist office for routes).
play “King of the Castle” and have a tortellini pasta and also the peaceful There are canals, rivers and pretty
dip from the village beach. green spaces of Parco Giardino Sigurtà. countryside to admire.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

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