Page 86 - DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

84 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

VISITING MANTUA
8 Valeggio sul Mincio Parco Giardino Sigurtà are perfect
Tourist Information Verona, Veneto; 37067 for stretching your legs. Highlights
Piazza Andrea Mantegna 6, 46100; On the western border of the Venetian include the tulips and irises in spring
0376 432 432; www.turismo.mantova.it
empire, this sleepy town played a and the water lilies in summer.
Bike and Boat Hire strategic role supported by its impos- ª Follow SS249 to Roverbella. From
To hire a bike for a day, register with a ing 14th-century Castello Scaligero. the centre follow signs to Santa Lucia.
passport and leave a deposit at Casa del
Rigoletto (Piazza Sordello 23). Longer- In pretty riverside Borghetto the Pass the left turn to Santa Lucia and
term bike hire is available at Mantua Ponte Visconteo, built by the Dukes turn right onto road to Mantua. Over­
Bike (Viale Piave 22b; 0376 220 909; of Milan in 1393, protected the edge look signs to the centre, follow signs to
www.mantuabike.it). Many hotels also of their territory. These days, Valeggio is Padova, taking the “tangenziale nord”
have cycles for guests.
more famous for tortellini, served in round to the SS10. Cross the bridge,
Lake and river cruises range from an family-run restaurants all over town. head towards the Castello, turn right at
hour’s round trip to a day cruise to Close to the centre, the woodland, the mini round about to the free park­
Venice. Contact the tourist office.
lawns and ornamental gardens of ing along the town wall on Via Mincio.
WHERE TO STAY
VALEGGIO SUL MINCIO 9 Mantua (Mantova)
La Finestra Sul Fiume B&B moderate Mantua, Lombardia; 46100
This converted mill in an idyllic riverside Rising out of the rice fields around the River Mincio, Mantua (Mantova)
location offers attractive suites and a is ringed on three sides by lakes awash with lily flowers in season. It’s
spacious garden. Cycles can be hired
nearby. Corte Sega 2, 37067; 045 795 impossibly romantic, with cobbled lanes linking the piazzas, a clutch
0556; www.lafinestrasulfiume.it of Renaissance masterpieces of art and architecture and a comfortable,
MANTOVA AND AROUND relaxed pace of life. In autumn, all the city’s restaurants feature ravioli
Consorzio Agrituristico Mantovano alla zucca (pumpkin stuffed ravioli) with sage butter.
This co-operative coordinates many
farmstay and B&B options across the A two-hour walking tour
fertile surrounding countryside. di San Giorgio, churches, courtyards,
www.agriturismomantova.it Follow the city wall east from the car gardens and the Palazzo del
parks to Via San Giorgio, next to the Capitano and Magna Domus. Once
Ostello del Mincio inexpensive
In Rivalta sul Mincio, 10 km (6 miles) castle, which leads into Piazza Sordello home to the ruling Gonzaga dynasty
west of town, this well-run YHA hostel 1. The thin square is dominated on (1328–1707), the palace is a labyrinth
offers doubles, family rooms and dorm, its eastern side by the sprawling of frescoed and mirrored rooms, the
plus bike and canoe hire. Palazzo Ducale 2 (closed Mon). The highlight being the Camera degli Sposi
Via Porto 23-25, 46040; 340 9300509; largest palace in medieval Europe, it (the Married Couple’s room) with
www.ostellodelmincio.it
incorporates the 14th-century Castello frescoes by Andrea Mantegna (1474).
Casa Poli moderate
This minimalist boutique hotel with
small but comfortable contemporary TRENTO VIALE MINCIO
VIA
rooms is located a 10-minute walk VI A PO R TO
from the city’s central squares. VIA SAN
Corso Garibaldi 32, 46100; 0376 288 VIA CAVOUR Duomo GI ORGIO
Piazza
170; www.hotelcasapoli.it PIAZZA Sordello Palazzo Ducale
BROLETTO
Residenza Ca’ delle Erbe moderate SS420 Sant’Andrea Palazzo del Podestà
Stay in airy rooms in a palace MANTEGNA VIA
PIAZZA
overlooking the square. A great mix ACCADEMIA LUNGOLAGO DEL GONZAGA
Piazza
of classic and contemporary styles. V I A VIT TOR I O E MA NU E LE PIAZZA delle Erbe
Via Broletto 24, 46100; 0376 226 161; VIA ROMA GUGLIELMO Teatro
www.cadelleerbe.it MARCONI Bibiena
Fish Market
Below Fresco showing the Titans attacking VIA PRINCIPE
AMADEO
Olympus, in the Palazzo Te, Mantua V I A L E P I AV E V I A C O N CILIAZ I O N E V I A GI O VA N N I C H IASS I VIA GIUSEPPE MAZZINI
VIA GI OSUÈ CARDUCCÌ
VIA GIOVANNIC vVIA FRA T TINI
PIAZZA ACERBI VIA NAZARIO C O R S O G I U S E P P E GA R I B A L D I
ANTONIO Casa del SAURO V I A G I U L I O R O M A N O
GRAMSCI Mantegna
Tempio di
San Sebastiano
0 metres 500
V I A L E R I S O R G I M E N T O
Palazzo Te V I A L E I S O N Z O 0 yards 500
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
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