Page 289 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy
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FL ORENCE      287


                           sculpture. Begun in 1255,   eccentric bronze menagerie
                           the fortress-like building   by Giambologna. To the
                           was initially the town   right is the Salone del
                           hall (making it the       Consiglio Generale,
                           oldest seat of             a cavernous
                           government in               former courtroom
                           the city), but it later     that contains
                           became a prison            the cream of the
       Detail of carvings by Donatello on the wall   and home to the   museum’s Early
       of Orsanmichele     chief of police          Renaissance sculpture.
                           (the Bargello). It     Foremost among its
       8 Orsanmichele      also became known      highlights is Donatello’s
                           for its executions,    heroic St George (1416) –
       Via dell’Arte della Lana. Map 3 C1         the epitome of “youth,
       (6 D3). Tel 055 28 49 44. Open 10am–   which took place in
       5pm daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Mon   the main courtyard   courage and valour of
       in Aug, 25 Dec.     until 1786, when the    arms” in the words of
                           death sentence was       Vasari. Commissioned
       Built in 1337 as a grain market,   abolished by Grand Duke   by the Armourers’ Guild,
       Orsanmichele was later   Pietro Leopoldo. Following   the statue was
       converted into a church which   extensive renovation,   brought here from
       took its name from Orto di San   the building opened    Orsanmichele in
       Michele, a monastic garden   as one of Italy’s first   1892. At the centre
       long since vanished. The arcades   national museums    of the room, in
       of the market became windows,   in 1865.        direct contrast,
       which are today bricked in, but     The key exhibits   Donatello’s David (c.1430)   is Donatello’s
       the original Gothic tracery can   range over three   in the Bargello  androgynous David
       still be seen. The decoration was   floors, beginning   (c.1430), famous as
       entrusted to Florence’s major   with the Michelangelo Room,   the first freestanding nude by
       Arti (guilds). Over 60 years they   redesigned after extensive   a Western artist since antiquity.
       commissioned sculptures of   damage during the 1966 flood   Among the room’s more easily
       their patron saints to adorn the   of the Arno. Three contrasting   missed works, tucked away on
       14 exterior niches; however,   works by Michelangelo lie dotted   the right wall, are two reliefs
       today many of the figures are   around the room, the most   depicting The Sacrifice of Isaac
       copies. Among the          famous a tipsy-  (1402). Created by Brunelleschi
       sculptors were             looking Bacchus   and Lorenzo Ghiberti respec-
       Lorenzo Ghiberti,          (1497), the   tively, both were entries in
       Donatello and              sculptor’s first large   the competition to design the
       Verrocchio.                freestanding work.   Baptistry doors.
         The beautifully          Close by is a     Beyond the Salone, the
       tranquil interior          powerful bust of   Bargello’s emphasis shifts to the
       contains an opulent        Brutus (1539–40),   applied arts, with room after
       14th-century altar         the only known   room devoted to rugs,
       by Andrea Orcagna,         portrait bust by   ceramics, silverware
       a Virgin and Child by   Brunelleschi’s Sacrifice of   Michelangelo, and    and a host of
       Bernardo Daddi   Isaac (1402) in the Bargello  a delicate circular   other beautiful
       (1348) and a statue of     relief depicting the   objets d’art. The
       the Madonna and Child    Madonna and Child (1503–5).   most celebrated
       with St Anne by Francesco    Countless works by other   of these rooms is
       da Sangallo (1522).  sculptors occupy the same room.   the Salone del
                           Among them is an exquisite   Camino on the
                           Mercury (1564) by the Mannerist   second floor, which
       9 Bargello          genius, Giam bologna, as well as   features the finest
                           several virtuoso bronzes by the   collection of
       Via del Proconsolo 4. Map 4 D1 (6 E3).
       Tel 055 238 86 06. @ 14, A. Open   sculptor and goldsmith   small bronzes in
       8:15am–1:30pm daily (to 5pm mid-  Benvenuto Cellini (1500–71).  Italy. Some are
       Jul–Sep). Closed 1st, 3rd & 5th Sun     Across the courtyard, full    reproductions of
       and 2nd & 4th Mon of each month;    of fragments and the coats of   antique models,
       1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & ^ 7  arms of the Bargello’s various   others are copies
                           incumbents, two more rooms   of Renaissance
       Florence’s second-ranking   contain exterior sculptures   statues. Giam-
       museum after the Uffizi, the   removed from sites around the   bologna, Cellini
       Bargello contains a wonderful   city. The courtyard’s external   and Antonio del
       medley of applied arts and Italy’s   staircase leads to the first floor,   Pollaiuolo are   Bacchus (1497)
       finest collection of Renaissance   which opens with a wonderfully   represented here.  by Michelangelo




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