Page 340 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy
P. 340

338      CENTR AL  IT AL Y


                           towers” with giants standing in    walls still survive. The Museo
                           a moat. The perfectly preserved   Etrusco Guarnacci contains
                           walls are best viewed from the   one of the best collections of
                           Colle di Val d’Elsa road. Within   Etruscan artifacts in Italy. Of
                           the walls, the sleepy town   special interest is the group of
                           consists of a large piazza, a   over 600 cinerary urns, made
                           pretty Romanesque church    from alabaster or terracotta,
                           (on the piazza), a few houses,    many of which were gathered
                           a couple of craft shops,   from local tombs.
                           restaurants, and shops selling     The Palazzo dei Priori, the
                           many of the locally produced   medieval seat of government
                           Castello di Monteriggioni wines.  on Piazza dei Priori, is the oldest
                                                        of its kind in
                           Environs                     Tuscany. It was
       The landscape of the Crete Senesi  West of       begun in 1208
                           Monteriggioni                and there are
       a Crete Senesi      by 3 km (2 miles)            14th-century
                           lies the former              frescoes inside.
       Asciano. V  @ n Via delle Fonti
       (0577 71 88 11).    Cistercian Abbey             The Pisan-
                           of Abbadia dell’             Romanesque
       To the south of Siena and   Isola (12th          Duomo, located
       central Tuscany is the area   century). This     on Piazza San
       known as the Crete Senesi,   Romanesque          Giovanni, has a
       which is characterized by round   church was     fine 13th-century
       clay hillocks eroded by heavy   largely rebuilt in   pulpit with
       rain over the centuries. Dubbed   the 18th century,   Detail from the pulpit in   sculptured panels.
       the “Tuscan desert”, it is almost   after the cupola fell   Volterra’s Duomo   Volterra’s excellent
       completely barren. Cypress and   apart. It con tains   art gallery and
       pine trees, planted to provide   frescoes by Taddeo di Bartolo   museum, the Pinacoteca e
       windbreaks along roads and   and Vincenzo Tamagni.  Museo Civico, features works
       around isolated farm houses,            by Florentine artists. Christ in
       are an important feature in this        Majesty (1492) by Ghirlandaio
       empty, primeval landscape.   f San Gimignano  shows Christ hovering above
       Shepherds tend flocks of sheep   See pp348–9.  an idealized Tuscan landscape.
       here; the milk is used to               Luca Signorelli’s Virgin and Child
       produce the strongly flavoured          with Saints (1491) states his debt
       pecorino cheese that is popular   g Volterra   to Roman art through the reliefs
       throughout Tuscany.  Pisa. * 13,000. @ n Piazza dei   on the base of the Virgin’s throne.
                           Priori 20 (0588 872 57). ( Sat.   Painted in the same year, his
       s Siena             ∑ volterratur.it    Annunciation is a beautifully
                                               balanced composition. Another
                           Like many Etruscan cities,   highlight is Rosso Fiorentino’s
       See pp342–7.
                           Volterra is situated on a high   Mannerist painting, The
                           plateau, offering fine views over   Deposition (1521).
       d Monteriggioni     the surrounding hills. In many     The city is famous for its
                           places the ancient Etruscan   craftsmen who have been
       Siena. * 99,000. @ n Piazza
       Roma (0577 30 48 34).
       ∑ monteriggioniturismo.it
       Monteriggioni is a gem of a
       medieval hilltop town. It was
       built in 1203 and 10 years later
       became a garrison town. It is
       completely encircled by high
       walls with 14 heavily fortified
       towers, built to guard the
       northern borders of Siena’s
       territory against invasion by
       Florentine armies.
         Dante used Monteriggioni as
       a simile for the deepest abyss at
       the heart of his Inferno, which
       compares the town’s “ring-
       shaped citadel… crowned with   The beautifully preserved walls of Monteriggioni in central Tuscany
       For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp569–73 and pp590–96


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