Page 440 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

438  ROME AND LAZIO

Apse mosaic from the 9th century of the Virgin and Child in Santa Maria in Domnica
2 Santa Maria in Medieval tradition had it that inner area is enclosed by two
Cosmedin the jaws would snap shut on concentric corridors. A third, outer
liars – a useful way of testing corridor was demolished on the
Piazza della Bocca della Verità. Map 6 the faithfulness of spouses. orders of Leon Battista Alberti in
E1. Tel 06 678 77 59. @ 23, 44, 81, 160, 1453. In the 1500s Niccolò
170, 280, 628, 715, 716. Open 9:30am– Pomarancio, Antonio Tempesta
6pm daily (5pm in winter). 5 7 = 3 Santa Maria in and others covered the walls
Domnica with 34 frescoes detailing the
This beautiful church was built martyrdoms of saints.
in the 6th century on the site of Piazza della Navicella 12. Map 7 A2.
the ancient city’s food market. Tel 06 772 02 685. @ 81, 117, 673.
The Romanesque bell tower q Colosseo. Open 9am–noon, 3:30–
and portico were added during 7pm daily (until 6pm in winter). 7
the 12th century. In the 19th
century a Baroque façade was Santa Maria in Domnica was
removed and the church probably founded in the 7th
restored to its original simplicity. century, and renovated in the
It contains many fine examples 9th century. By this time the
of Cosmati work, in particular Romans had lost the art of mak­
the mosaic pavement, the raised ing mosaics, so Pope Paschal I
choir, the bishop’s throne, and imported mosaicists from Byzan­
the canopy over the main altar. tium. They created an exquisite Cloister of Santi Quattro Coronati
Set into the wall of the apse mosaic showing the Virgin,
portico is the Bocca della Verità Child and angels in a garden of 5 Santi Quattro
(Mouth of Truth), a grotesque paradise. Paschal I is kneeling Coronati
marble face, thought to have at the Virgin’s feet wearing a
been an ancient drain cover. square halo, indi cat ing that he Via dei Santi Quattro Coronati 20. Map
was alive when it was made. 7 B1. Tel 06 70 47 54 27. @ 85, 117,
In 1513 Andrea Sansovino 810. v 3. Basilica, Cloister & Chapel of
added a portico decorated with St Sylvester: Open 10–11:45am,
4–5:45pm daily (Sun: pm only). 7
lions’ heads, a punning homage
to Pope Leo X. This fortified convent was built
in the 4th century to house the
4 Santo Stefano relics of four Persian stone­
masons, martyred after they
Rotondo refused to make a statue of
the pagan god Aesculapius.
Via di Santo Stefano Rotondo 7.
Map 7 B2. Tel 06 42 11 99. @ 81, It was rebuilt after invading
117, 673. Open 9:30am–12:30pm, Normans set fire to it in 1084.
3–6pm (2–5pm in winter) Tue–Sat; Highlights are a delightful
9:30am–noon Sun. ^ garden cloister and the
Chapel of St Sylvester, where
Santo Stefano Rotondo was 12th­century frescoes recount
built between 468 and 483 on the legend of Emperor
The nave of Santa Maria in Cosmedin with a circular plan with four chapels Constantine’s conversion
its Cosmati floor in a cruciform shape. Its circular to Christianity.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp573–6 and pp596–600

438-439_EW_Italy.indd 438 4/4/17 5:36 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm