Page 445 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy
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ROME :  FUR THER  AFIELD      443


       A circular Temple of Diana    Borghese, husband to
       folly lies between the Porta   Napoleon’s sister Pauline,
       Pinciana, at the top of Via   unfortunately sold many of the
       Veneto, and Piazza di Siena,    family paintings to his brother-
       a grassy amphitheatre that   in-law, and swapped 200 of
       hosts Rome’s international    Scipione’s Classical statues for
       horse show in May. Its umbrella   an estate in Piedmont. These
       pines inspired the composer   statues are still in the Louvre
       Ottorino Respighi to write    and, as a consequence, the
       The Pines of Rome (1924).    remaining antique Classical
       The open-air opera season    collection is less interesting
       is also held in the park.  than it might once have been.
         To the northwest of the park   However, the hedonistic
       is the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte   cardinal was an enthusiastic
       Moderna, and the Orangery    patron of the arts and the
       is now home to the Carlo    sculptures he commissioned
       Bilotti Museum.     from artists such as the young
                           Bernini now rank among their
                           most famous works.
                             The eight rooms of the   Detail of Rape of Proserpina by Bernini
                           ground floor of the Villa   (1622), Museo Borghese
                           Borghese are set around a
                           central hall, the Salone. The   own. In the next alcove is the
                           most famous statue is one of   Villa Borghese’s most infamous
                           Bernini’s finest works, Apollo and   work – a sculpture, executed in
                           Daphne (1624) in room 3, which   1805 by Canova, of Pauline
                           shows the nymph Daphne with   Borghese as Venus Victrix (Venus
                           bay leaves sprouting from her   the Conqueror). The semi-naked
                           outstretched fingers, roots   Pauline reclining on a chaise-
                           growing from her toes and   longue shocked those who
                           rough bark enfolding her   saw it and Pauline’s husband
                           smooth body, as she begins to   kept the statue locked away,
                           metamorphose into a laurel   even denying Canova access
                           tree to escape being abducted   to it. The next room holds a
                           by the god Apollo. Abduction is   selection of antiquities, notably
                           also the theme of The Rape of   a Roman copy of a plump
                           Proserpina, again by Bernini, in   Bacchus by the 4th-century BC
                           room 4. Depicting Pluto, the   Greek sculptor
                           god of the Underworld,     Praxiteles, and
       Sacred and Profane Love by Titian (1514),    carrying Proserpina, daughter   fragments of a
       in the Galleria Borghese  of Ceres, off to be his   3rd-century AD
                                                      mosaic found on
       2 Museo e Galleria   bride, the sculpture is a   one of the Borghese
                           virtuoso piece in which
       Borghese            Bernini contrasts the     estates in Torrenova,
                           taut musculature of       showing gladiators
       Villa Borghese, Piazzale Scipione
       Borghese 5. Tel 06 328 10. @ 52, 53,   Pluto with the soft   battling with
       116, 910. v 3, 19. Open 9am–7pm   yielding flesh of   wild animals.
       Tue–Sun (reservations required).   Proserpina, whose    The Galleria
       Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & (free 1st    thigh dimples in his   Borghese, on the
       Sun of month). ^ 9 - = 7   iron grip.          upper floor, houses
       ∑ galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it    The third famous   some magnificent
                           Bernini piece, which      Baroque and Renais-
       Cardinal Scipione Borghese’s   dates from 1623, is   sance paintings.
       villa was designed in 1605 as    David in room 2. The   Works on display
       a typical Roman country house,   artist captures the   include
       with its wings projecting into   tensed, grimacing   Raphael’s
       the surrounding gardens.    youth the           masterpiece,
       It was built by Flaminio Ponzio,   moment before   Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne    the Deposition,
       Pope Paul V’s architect, and was   he releases the   (1624)  various works by
       used by Scipione for entertaining   stone that slew   Caravaggio, the
       guests and for displaying his   Goliath. It is said that Pope   graceful Danäe by the 16th-
       impressive collection of paintings   Urban VIII held a mirror up to   century artist Correggio, as
       and sculpture. Between 1801   Bernini so that the sculptor   well as works by Pinturicchio,
       and 1809 Prince Camillo   could model David’s face on his   Barocci, Rubens and Titian.




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