Page 447 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy
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ROME :  FUR THER  AFIELD      445


                                               The original was moved to the
                                               Vatican Museums in 1790.
                                               The sanctity of Constantia is
                                               somewhat debatable. Described
                                               by the historian Marcellinus as
                                               a fury incarnate, constantly goad-
                                               ing her equally unpleasant
                                               husband, Hannibalianus, to
                                               violence, her canonization was
                                               probably the result of some
                                               confusion with a saintly nun
                                               of the same name.
                                                7 Via Appia Antica
       MAXXI, the National Museum of 21st Century Arts, designed by Zaha Hadid  @ 118, 218.
       4 MAXXI (National   in a stole of gold and a violet   The first part of the Via Appia
       Museum of 21st      robe. Tradition has it that she   was built in 312 BC by Appius
       Century Arts)       appeared like this eight days   Claudius Caecus. In 190 BC,
                           after her death holding a white
                                                when it was extended to the
       Villa Guido Reni 4A. Tel 06 320 19 54.   lamb. On 21 January, two lambs   ports of Taranto and Brindisi, the
       @ 53, 217, 910. v 2. Open 11am–   are blessed in the church and a   road became Rome’s link with
       7pm Tue–Sun (to 10pm Sat).    vestment called a pallium is   its empire in the East. It was the
       Closed 1 May, 25 Dec. 7 0 - =   woven from their wool, to be   route taken by the funeral
       & (free up to age 14). 9   given to a new archbishop.  processions of the dictator Sulla
       ∑ fondazionemaxxi.it                     (78 BC) and Emperor Augustus
                                                (AD 14), and it was along this
       Along with the nearby Parco              road that St Paul was led as a
       della Musica (see p449), MAXXI,          prisoner to Rome in AD 56.
       the National Museum of 21st              The church of Domine Quo
       Century Arts, has put Rome               Vadis marks the spot where
       on the contemporary arts                 St Peter is said to have met
       map. Completed in 2009, it is            Christ when fleeing Rome. The
       located in a stunning building           road is lined with ruined family
       designed by architect Zaha   Apse mosaic in Sant’Agnese, showing the   tombs, decaying monuments
       Hadid. The museum showcases   saint flanked by popes  and collective burial places
       emerging Italian and inter-              (columbaria). Beneath the fields
       national artists. An impressive          on either side lies a maze of
       amount of space is also given   6 Santa Costanza   catacombs, including those of
       over to architecture.                    San Callisto and San Sebastiano.
                           Via Nomentana 349. Tel 06 862 054
                           56.  @ 60, 82, 90. Open 9am–noon,
       5 Sant’Agnese fuori   3–6pm daily (Sun pm only). Closed
       le Mura             late Oct–late Nov. & 7 8
                           This circular church was built
       Via Nomentana 349. Tel 06 862 054 56.
       @ 60, 82, 90. Open 8am–7pm daily.   in the early 4th century as a
       Closed late Oct–late Nov. & to   mausoleum for Emperor
       catacombs. 7 8      Constantine’s daughters,
                           Constantia and Helena.
       Sant’Agnese fuori le Mura was   The dome and its drum are
       built in the 4th century above   supported by an arcade that
       the crypt of the 13-year-old   rests on 12 magnificent pairs of
       martyr St Agnes, and although   granite columns. The encircling
       much altered it retains the    ambulatory has a barrel-vaulted
       form of the original basilica.   ceiling decorated with the
       According to legend it was   world’s earliest surviving
       founded by Constantine’s   Christian mosaics, which date
       daughter Constantia, who was   from the 4th century.
       cured from leprosy after     In a niche on the far side of
       sleeping beside Agnes’s tomb.  the church is a replica of
         In the 7th-century apse   Constantia’s ornate porphyry
       mosaic, St Agnes appears as a   sarcophagus, carved with   Cypresses lining the Roman road,
       bejewelled Byzantine empress   cherubs crushing grapes.     Via Appia




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