Page 77 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Mallorca, Menorca & Ibiza

M ALL ORC A  75

t Jardines de
Alfabia
14 km (9 miles) north of Palma. @
Tel 971 613 123. Open Mar:
9:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–
1pm Sat; Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6:30pm
daily. Closed Nov–Feb.
& ∑ jardinesdealfabia.com
Most visitors come to see the
magnificent Moorish gardens
of this old manor house, set
amid lemon groves. Footpaths
shaded by pergolas crisscross
streams and take you past
murmuring fountains, ivy-clad Beach at the end of Torrent de Pareis canyon, near Sa Calobra
walls and beds of splendid
roses. The house is approached y Sa Calobra impassable, as the bottom of
via a long stately avenue of 30 km (19 miles) NE of Fornalutx. the canyon, known as the
plane trees. “Great Canyon of Mallorca”, fills
Following the conquest of the This tiny hamlet occupies a with torrential waters. Once
island by Jaume I, the estate was beautiful cove surrounded by upon a time Sa Calobra was
given to the Moorish governor high cliffs. A busy tourist centre, accessible only by boat. Now
Benhabet. Benhabet had been its main attraction is the Torrent there is a twisting road leading
the governor of Pollença but de Pareis (River of the Twins) to it, which in view of its break-
supported the king by pro- canyon, which is reached by neck descents and bends has
visioning the Catalan army a coastal walkway, leading been nicknamed Nus de la
during the invasion. For this help, partly through a tunnel. Corbata (“Knotted Neck-tie”).
Jaume I gave Benhabet this land It is also possible to reach Two kilometres (1 mile) before
and he set about planning an this impressive canyon from Sa Calobra, you can take a left
estate in the Moorish style. After Escorca, a hamlet on the way turn to the popular resort of
his death the castle became the from Sóller to Pollença. This Cala Tuent. Set against the
residence of the Mallorcan nob- route is extremely difficult, northern slopes of Puig Major,
ility. The origin of the estate’s however, and requires rock- the quiet village has a modest
name goes back to the days climbing skills, ropes and gravel and sand beach. The
of Arab rule, when it was called wetsuits. It takes about six Es Vergeret restaurant has a
Al-Fabi (“Jug of olives”). hours to cover it. During the large selection of fish dishes
The house itself, with its winter and spring or after and its terrace affords a fine
courtyard surrounded by heavy rainfall, it is virtually view of the rocky coast.
domestic buildings and shaded
by a giant plane tree, is actually
modest though attractive. Most Serra de Tramuntana
notable is the 14th-century oak The northern coast of Mallorca is dominated by the Serra de
throne made for Jaume IV. The Tramuntana (Mountains of the North Wind), which run from Sa
gatehouse features a lovely Dragonera in the west to Formentor in the east. The highest peak
Mudéjar (Spanish-Moorish) of this 90-km (55-mile) stretch is Puig Major (1,445 m/4,740 ft),
style vault, with an inscription though part of this is used by the military and closed to visitors.
praising Allah. The steep slopes are covered with sweet-smelling wild rosemary
and are home to goats, sheep and rare birds. The best way to enjoy
this area is on foot, and a
number of maps are easily
available that list walking
routes through all or part
of the mountain range.
Alternatively, you can
explore the mountains
by car, although great
care should be taken on
the narrow and twisting
roads and frequent hairpin
bends that descend
through steep cliffs
Sun shining through a pergola in to the sea. Steep mountain slopes west of Santuari de Lluc
Jardines de Alfàbia
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp148–50 and pp155–9

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