Page 72 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Mallorca, Menorca & Ibiza

70  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA M ALL ORC A  71

original entrance. Once used as
a political prison, the palace Frédéric Chopin and George Sand
now serves as a venue for
displays of folk dancing and The acclaimed Polish composer Chopin spent four months in Valldemossa’s 14th-century
recitals of Chopin’s music. monastery (see opposite) during the winter of 1838–9. Chopin was accompanied by
Valldemossa itself is charming Aurora Dupin, better known as the French novelist George Sand, and her children. Their
and always bustling. Most
visitors are keen to see the arrival here was partly to escape the prying eyes of Parisian society and partly on account
places associated with Chopin, of the composer’s health. Chopin suffered from tuberculosis, though the weather was so
but a stroll along the town’s bad during his stay that it made him worse. The short visit to the town by this unusual
narrow cobbled alleys is couple, described by Sand in A Winter in Mallorca, has contributed to the popularity of
definitely worthwhile. Valldemossa, despite the fact that Sand labelled the locals as “savages”.
The modest house at Carrer
Rectoría 5 is where the saintly
nun Catalina Thomàs was born The garden in front of cell No. 2, in which Chopin’s
to a peasant family. The house scores and George Sand’s manuscripts are held, has a
Enchanting little alleys of Valldemossa has been converted into a fine terrace. There is some dispute over which cell Chopin
richly decorated chapel, with occupied, although it is generally believed to be No.4.
0 Valldemossa The adjacent cells contain the statue of the saint standing
mementos of Chopin and in front, holding a jug with
* 1,750. @ n Av. Palma 7, George Sand. The 17th-century flowing water. Nearby is the
971 612 019. ( Sun. _ Santa monastery pharmacy contains 15th-century church of Sant
Catalina Thomàs (28 Jul), Sant a variety of ceramic and glass Bartomeu, now, unfortunately,
Bartomeu (24 Aug), Chopin Festival partly destroyed.
(Aug). ∑ valldemossa.es jars with wonderfully detailed Portrait of
descriptions of their contents
George Sand
The historical records of (look out for the jar containing E Real Cartuja y Palacio del A French writer and
Valldemossa go back to “powdered beasts’ claws”). Rey Sancho journalist, Sand was a
the 14th century, when the The monastery also houses Plaça de Cartuja de Valldemossa. highly unconventional
asthmatic King Sancho built the excellent Museu Municipal Tel 971 612 986. Closed Sun figure. She was way
this palace in the mountains d’Art, which includes a small (Nov–Mar). & 7 ∑ cartuja ahead of her time –
to make the most of the collection of works by distin- devalldemossa.com she wore trousers,
more rarefied air. In 1399, the guished Spanish artists including smoked cigars and
palace was handed over to Antoni Tàpies, Joan Miró and Environs lived with men she
the Carthusian monks, who Juli Ramis – a Modernista painter Port de Valldemossa lies was not married to.
remodelled it as a monastery. and native of Mallorca. There is some 6 km (4 miles) north of
The Real Cartuja y Palacio del also a cycle of illustrations by Valldemossa. This is a small Portrait of Frédéric Chopin, by Italian
Rey Sancho (Royal Carthusian Pablo Picasso, Burial of Count fishing village scenically poised painter Luigi Calamatta, in the form of a
Monastery of Jesus of Nazareth) Orgaz, inspired by the famous on the shores of a wide bay and photomontage over an original partiture
was abandoned in 1835, when El Greco painting. surrounded by rugged cliffs. It composed by the musician, displayed in
the monks were dispossessed. On leaving the cloisters, you is reached by a narrow, hairpin the Royal Carthusian Monastery.
The composer Frédéric can proceed to the Palau del road. The local beach, although
Chopin rented a former Rei Sanç – the Palace of King small and pebbly, is enchanting
monk’s cell here in 1838 with Sancho. This is the oldest fortified and occupies a beautiful
his lover George Sand, the part of the monastery. The main location. The demanding
feminist French writer, and the point of interest is the wooden journey is rewarded by a
monastery is now the town’s drawbridge connecting the two renowned restaurant
main tourist attraction. In front chambers over the palace’s specializing in seafood.
of the entrance, in Plaça de la
Cartuja de Valldemossa, is a Santa Catalina Thomas
monument to Chopin.
The monastery includes a (1531–74)
chapel with a ceiling decorated Catalina Thomàs is the only Mallorcan
with late Baroque paintings by saint. At the age of 23, she joined
Miguel Bayeu, a relative of Goya’s. an Augustinian order. Known for The Pleyal Piano
Behind the chapel are rows of her humility, she declined the is the composer’s
shady arcades. The prior’s cell, position of Mother Superior, saying oldest piano,
despite its name, consists of that she did not wish to govern but conserved in
several spacious rooms with to serve God. She is buried in the cell No. 4, where
access to a private garden chapel of Santa María Magdalena he finished his
offering a magnificent view convent in Palma, where she spent Preludes. Chopin’s A Winter in Mallorca
of the valley below. The many years of her life. She was major partitures George Sand’s description of
rooms house an exhibition Tile with the image of the Saint, canonized in 1930. are on show in her visit to Mallorca with Chopin
of religious artifacts of on one of Valldemossa’s houses the museum. has enjoyed lasting popularity.
considerable interest.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp148–50 and pp155–9

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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.4)
Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm