Page 74 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Mallorca, Menorca & Ibiza

72  THE BALEARIC ISLANDS AREA B Y AREA M ALL ORC A  73

Ludwig Salvator Robert Graves (1895–1985)
The Habsburg Archduke Robert Graves was an English novelist, poet and classical scholar.
Ludwig Salvator was born Severely wounded on the Somme during World War I, his frank
in 1847. He first visited autobiography, Goodbye to All That, earned him enough money
Mallorca at the age of 19 to move to Mallorca, where he set up home, accompanied by his
and became captivated by muse and mistress, the poet
the island. He settled here Laura Riding. Here, he wrote
semi­permanently, learned two tremendously successful
the local dialect and created historic novels: I, Claudius
a scandal by marrying a local and Claudius the God, which
carpenter’s daughter. He made him world-famous.
was tireless in exploring The outbreak of the Spanish
and promoting Mallorca, Civil War interrupted his stay
producing a seven­volume but he returned to the island
Rotunda in the garden of Son Marroig in 1946. He died in 1985 and is
work devoted to the island’s Modernista building of Banco de Sóller, one
q Son Marroig w Deià history, archaeology, folklore of Sóller’s landmarks buried in the local church of
Sant Joan Baptista beneath a
and topography. It is largely
3 km (2 miles) northeast of Deià. * 700. @ _ Sant Joan Baptista thanks to him that a 10­km­ E Museu Arqueológic simple gravestone. His house Robert Graves’ tombstone in
Deià’s cemetery
is now a museum.
Open 9:30am–6:30pm Mon–Sat (24 Jun). ∑ deia.info (6­mile­) long stretch of the Es Clot Deià. Tel 699 957 902.
(to 5:30pm in summer). & coast that he owned has Open Apr–Sep: 5–7pm Sat,
∑ sonmarroig.com This lovely mountain town lies never been developed. 11am–1pm Sun. &
at the spot where the mighty In 1910, he was awarded Neo-Gothic church of Sant the Sóller terminus you can hop
This late medieval mansion, Puig d’es Teix meets the sea. honorary citizenship of Environs Bartomeu, also designed by aboard a vintage tram, which
perched high above the sea­ Deià is mostly associated with Mallorca. He died in 1915. A winding road leads to Cala Rubió. Particularly eye-catching takes you on to Port de Sóller
shore, was remodelled in the the English novelist and poet Deià, a pretty cove with a is the vast rose window on the (see p74). Sóller train station is a
19th century to become the Robert Graves. Graves settled shingle beach and clear water. church façade, carved in stone, singularly attractive building,
residence of the Habsburg here in 1929 and for the next and the Baroque sculptures and the main station hall
Archduke Ludwig Salvator. 56 years lived and worked at contrasting with the exhibits a pair of large photos
The Austrian aristocrat was his home, Ca N’Alluny, making e Sóller dark interior. of two of its most famous
fabulously rich and came to the place popular with other £ @ n Plaça Espanya 1. Tel 971 Museu Balear de visitors – Miró and Picasso.
Mallorca hoping to escape artists, including Picasso and 638 008. ( Sat. _ Festes de Moros Ciències Naturals (Balearic
from the strict morality of the the writer Anaïs Nin. i Cristians (2nd Sun in May). Museum of Natural Science), Environs
Viennese court. He fell in love Perched high above the on the outskirts of Port de Sóller, situated
with the island, settled here town is the modest church of Situated in a valley, Sóller is Sóller, was opened 5 km (3 miles) from
and gave himself over to Sant Joan Baptista (1754–60). sheltered by the Serra de Alfàbia in 1992 in a late Sóller, is a pleasant
exploring and promoting The adjacent building houses mountain massif and is located 19th-century although crowded
the Balearic Islands. the parish museum, with a just a handful of kilometres from mansion house. resort with many
The house is now a museum, collection of religious objects. the ocean. Its name reputedly Its exhibits include Fountain in Plaça Constitució seafood restau-
dedicated to his life and work Deià also has an interesting derives from the Arabic word a collection of in Sóller rants next to the
and including some of his pen Museu Arqueológic, founded E Ca N’Alluny: La Casa de suliar, meaning “golden bowl” – Mallorcan fossils harbour and
drawings and manuscripts. by the American archaeologist Robert Graves the valley is famous for its and rocks and specimens by the beach. Here, you can
It is surrounded by a terrace William Waldren, displaying the Carretera Deià–Sóller s/n. many orange groves. of the local flora. enjoy a boat trip along the
and graced by a rotunda of prehistory of Mallorca. Tel 971 636 185. Open Apr–Oct: Arabs, who settled here in the The adjacent Jardí Botànic coast, or go for a hike to the
white marble. From here, the Hotel La Residencia, in the 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm late 8th century, built canals and contains plants native to the nearby lighthouse.
Archduke enjoyed fine views grounds of a former estate, has Sat; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, irrigation ditches and the town Balearic Islands. The town’s
over the wooded shore to the attracted such famous guests as 9am–2pm Sat. & ∑ lacasa grew rich thanks to its plentiful vintage electric train, E Museu Balear de Ciències
narrow promontory of Sa Princess Diana and Sir Bob Geldof. derobertgraves.com supply of oranges and the nicknamed the “Red Arrow”, Naturals and Jardí Botànic
Foradada, where he used to vineyards and olive groves, which runs between Palma and Ctra Palma–Port de Sóller. Tel 971
moor his yacht Nixe. It takes less planted on the slopes of the Sóller, provides a superb ride 634 064. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat
than an hour’s walk to get there. Serra de Tramuntana. In through the mountains. From (Nov–Feb: to 2pm). & 7
exchange for its oranges and
Environs wine, it imported goods from
A short way southwest of France and links between the
Son Marroig is the Monestír town and France remain strong.
de Miramar. The house was Plaça Constitució is a
built in 1276 for Ramon Llull lively square and the centre
but was acquired by Ludwig of Sóller. Mature trees, foun-
Salvator in 1827. The Archduke tains and lively cafés give the
entertained Princess Sisi here place its unique atmosphere.
during her visit to Mallorca. Notable buildings include the
Modernista castle-like Banco
E Monestír de Miramar de Sóller, which is the work of
Open 9am–5:45pm daily (to 4:45pm Joan Rubió i Bellver, a disciple
in winter). & Hotel La Residencia viewed from the church hill of Antoni Gaudí, and the Punta Grosa lighthouse, near Port de Sóller
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp148–50 and pp155–9

072-073_EW_Mallorca.indd 72 06/10/17 11:08 am 072-073_EW_Mallorca.indd 73 06/10/17 11:08 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.4)
Date 25th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm