Page 130 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Sicily

128  SICIL Y AREA B Y AREA

y Pantelleria Trapani
Road map A5. * 8,000. g k Trapani
n Town hall (0923-695 035/036);
Pro Loco (334-390 93 60 or 338-810
56 44). ∑ comune.pantelleria.it
Pantelleria
Pantelleria, the largest island Cala PANTELLERIA
off the Sicilian coastline, is J Cinque Denti
closer to the Tunisian coast
(Capo Mustafà is 70 km or
44 miles away) than to Capo Punta S.Vito Cala
Fram
Granitola in Sicily (100 km, Khamma Tramontana
62 miles). Despite its isolation,
Pantelleria was colonized by M. Grande Tracino
the Phoenicians and then by 836 m (2740 ft)
the Greeks. It was controlled
by the Arabs for almost 400 PANTELLERIA
years (in fact, its name derives J
from Bent el-Rhia, “daughter
of the wind”) and was then Scauri
conquered and fortified in 1123
by Roger I. Since that time its
history has run in parallel to
the vicissitudes of Sicily. J Balata dei
The strong wind that blows Key Turchi
here all year round has forced Scenic route 0 kilometres 3
the inhabitants to protect their Major road 0 miles 3
plants and kitchen gardens with
enclosures and walls, and to series of megalithic
prune the olive trees so that structures called
they grow almost horizontally, sesi in local dialect)
close to the ground. Wind is also and then up to
responsible for a typical style high ground. The
of building called dammuso, a main sights here
square, whitewashed peasant’s are Punta Fram,
house with walls almost 2 m Cala dell’Altura
(6 ft) thick and tiny windows and Punta Tre
in order to provide the best Pietre, where
insulation. Water is scarce on another road takes Walled gardens on Pantelleria
the island, so the roofs of these you to the little port
homes are shaped to collect of Scauri. The coast is steep and Tracino promontory – with a
rainwater. The coastal road is craggy with some inlets (like striking rock formation in front
53 km (33 miles) in length; it the Balata dei Turchi, once of it – which separates the
starts at the town of Pantelleria a favourite landing place for Tramontana and Levante
and goes past the archaeolo­ Saracen pirates, or the lovely inlets. After the village of Gadir
gical zone of Mursia (with a Cala Rotonda) up to the Punta and the lighthouse at Punta
Spasdillo the road descends
to the Cala Cinque Denti inlet
or the Bagno dell’Acqua hot
springs and then back to its
starting point. The town of
Pantelleria, at the foot of the
Barbacane Castle, was almost
destroyed by Allied bombings
in World War II. Life revolves
around Piazza Cavour and the
new Chiesa Madre, both facing
the sea. Renting a bicycle is a
very pleasant way of getting
to know the island and the
local way of life, as well as
the handicrafts, the famous
Mos cato passito dessert wine
Arco dell’Elefante, one of the most beautiful spots in Pantelleria and the locally grown capers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p203 and pp213–14

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