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       of Sir Benjamin Guinness, the   9 Christ Church
       cathedral underwent extensive   Cathedral
       restoration during the 1860s.
         The interior is dotted with   Christchurch Place. Tel 01-677 8099.
       memorials. The most elaborate    @ 13, 49, 54A, 56A, 77A, 123. Open
       is the one erected in 1632 by   daily. Closed Dec 26 & 27. & 7
                           limited. ∑ christchurchdublin.ie
       Richard Boyle, Earl of Cork, in
       memory of his second wife
       Katherine. It is deco rated with   The cathedral was
       painted carvings of members    commissioned in 1172
       of the Boyle family. Others   by Richard de Clare, known
       remembered in the church   as Strongbow, the Anglo-
       include the harpist Turlough   Norman conqueror of Dublin,
       O’Carolan (1670–1738) and   and by Archbishop Laurence
       Douglas Hyde (1860–1949),   O’Toole. It replaced an earlier
       Ireland’s first President.  wooden church built by the
         Many visitors come to see the   Vikings. During the Reform-
       memorials associated with   ation, the cathedral passed
       Jonathan Swift (1667–1745),   to the Protestant Church of
       Dean of St. Patrick’s and a   Ireland. It was remodeled by   Christ Church Cathedral viewed from the east,
       scathing satirist best known as   architect George Street in the  with the Old Synod Hall behind
       the author of Gulliver’s Travels. In   1870s. Even so, the north wall,
       the south aisle is “Swift’s Corner,”   the one closest to the river, still   In the atmospheric crypt are
       which has memorabilia, such as   leans out alarmingly as a result   fragments removed from the
       an altar table and his death   of subsidence. As part of the   cathedral during its restoration.
       mask. On the southwest side of   remodeling, the Old Synod    There are also the mummified
       the nave, two brass plates mark   Hall was built and linked to    bodies of a cat and a rat found in
       his grave and that of his   the cathedral by an attractive   an organ pipe in the 1860s. There
       beloved “Stella,” Ester Johnson.  covered bridge.  is a permanent exhibition of the
                                               cathedral’s treasures as well.
                                                 The nave has some fine early
                    Bedford   VISITORS’ CHECKLIST  Gothic arches. At the west end
                    Tower (1760)               is a memorial known as the
                            Practical Information  Strongbow Monument. The
                            Off Dame St. Tel 01-645 8813.   large effigy in chain armor is
                            Open daily (Sun pm only).    probably not Strongbow, but
                            Closed Jan 1, Good Fri,    the curious half-figure beside
                            Dec 24–28. & 8 obligatory.  it may be part of his original
                            Chester Beatty Library:    tomb. The Chapel of St. Laud
                            Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.   houses a casket containing the
                            Closed Jan 1, Good Fri, Dec   heart of St. Laurence O’Toole.
                            24–26, public hols.
                            ∑ dublincastle.ie
                            Transport          0 Dublinia and the
                            @ 49, 77A, 123.    Viking World
                                               St. Michael’s Hill. Tel 01-679 4611.
                                               @ 13, 49, 54A, 123. Open daily.
                                               Closed Dec 24–26. & 7
                                               ∑ dublinia.ie
        Entrance to                            Housed in the Neo-Gothic
        Upper Yard
                                               Synod Hall, which is linked
                                               by a bridge to Christ Church
           Lower Yard
                                               Cathedral, this heritage center
                                               covers the period of Dublin’s
                                               history from the arrival of the
                                               Anglo-Normans in 1170 to
                                       Government   the closure of the monasteries
                                       offices  in the 1540s. An audio tour
                           Figure of Justice   takes visitors through lifesize
                           Cynical Dubliners have joked that   reconstructions of the medieval
                               this statue above the castle   city. There is also a Viking
       Chapel Royal            entrance appears to be   warship and an interactive
       (1814)                  turning her back on the city.  archaeology exhibition.



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