Page 124 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe

122  BRIT AIN AND IRELAND

James Gandon’s Four Courts, overlooking the River Liffey
q The Liffey Gandon at the end of the 18th rights in the 19th century.
century. In 1921, supporters The street was laid out in the
@ 25, 25A, 51, 66, 66A, 67, 67A, 68, 69
and many others. of Sinn Féin celebrated their 18th century as an elegant
election victory by setting residential parade, but the
Though modest in size light to the Custom House, construction of Carlisle (now
compared with the rivers of seen as a symbol of British O’Connell) Bridge in 1790
other capital cities, the Liffey imperialism. The building turned it into the city’s
features strongly in Dubliners’ was not fully restored until principal north-south route.
everyday lives and holds a 1991, when it reopened as As a result, little remains of
special place in their affections. government offices. A its intended grandeur.
The handiest pedestrian link series of 14 magnificent A few venerable
between Temple Bar (see p120) heads by Edward Smyth, buildings survive,
and the north of the city is personifying Ireland’s including the General
Ha’penny Bridge. This attractive, rivers and the Atlantic Post Office, which
cast-iron bridge, originally called Ocean, form the became a symbol of the
Wellington Bridge, was opened keystones of arches 1916 Easter Rising.
in 1816. Its official name now and entrances. Members of the Irish
is the Liffey Bridge. Its better- The Four Courts Volunteers and
known nickname comes from suffered a similar Irish Citizen
the toll of a halfpenny levied fate during the Army seized the
on it up until 1919. Irish Civil War of building on
The two most impressive 1921–2, when it The monument to Easter Monday,
buildings on the Liffey are the was bombarded Daniel O’Connell and Patrick
Custom House and the Four by government Pearse read out
Courts, both designed by James troops after being seized by the Proclamation of the Irish
anti-Treaty rebels. Here too, Republic from its steps. The
the buildings were restored to rebels remained inside for a
their original design. A copper- week, but shelling from the
covered lantern dome rises British eventually forced them
above a Corinthian portico out. During the following
crowned with the figures of weeks, 14 of the leaders were
Moses, Justice, and Mercy. caught and shot. Inside the
building is a sculpture of the
mythical Irish hero Cuchulainn,
w O’Connell Street dedicated to those who died,
and a small museum tells the
@ 2, 3, 11, 13, 16A, and many others.
history of the postal service.
Dublin’s main thoroughfare, A walk up the central mall is
formerly called Sackville Street, the best way to inspect the
was renamed in 1922 after series of sculptures lining the
Daniel O’Connell, who was route. At the south end stands
Carved head representing the River known as the “Liberator” for his a massive memorial to Daniel
Liffey, Custom House tireless campaigns for Catholic O’Connell, unveiled in 1882.
For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139

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