Page 126 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
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124      BRIT AIN  AND  IRELAND

       Southeast Ireland                       opening above the entrance to
                                               the tomb – a feature unique to
       Enjoying the warmest climate in Ireland, the southeast has   Newgrange. The light travels
       always presented an attractive prospect for invaders and   along the 19-m (62-ft) passage
       settlers. Its highlights include the Neolithic tombs in the   and hits the central recess in the
       Valley of the Boyne, early Christian monastic sites, and towns   burial chamber. It is thus the
                                               world’s oldest solar observatory.
       such as Waterford that grew from Viking settlements. It is also     Between 1962 and 1975, the
       the setting for many great 18th-century houses built by the   grave and the mound, or cairn,
       ruling English aristocracy. The wildest landscapes of the   covering it were restored. The
       region are to be found in the forested hills and desolate   retaining wall at the front of
       moorland of the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin.  the cairn was rebuilt using
                                               white quartz and granite
                                               stones found scattered around
                           A portrait of Lady Louisa is   the site. It is estimated that
                           incorporated in the superb   the original tomb, created by
                           Rococo stuccowork by the   people who had neither the
                           Francini brothers in the staircase   wheel nor metal tools, may
                           hall. Another personal reminder   have taken up to 70 years to
                           of Lady Louisa is the print room,   build. About 200,000 tons of
                           the last surviving, intact   loose stones were transported
                           example of its kind. In the    to build the cairn. Larger slabs
                           18th century, ladies pasted   were used to make the circle
                           prints directly on to the wall    around the cairn and the
                           and framed them with   retaining kerb. Many of the
                           elaborate festoons.  kerbstones and the slabs lining
                                               the passage and chamber are
                           3 Newgrange         decorated with zigzags, spirals,
                                               and other geometric motifs.
                           8 km (5 miles) E of Slane, Co. Meath.     Each of the three recesses in
                           £ to Drogheda. @ to visitor center   the central chamber contained
                           via Drogheda. Brú na Bóinne   a chiseled “basin stone” that
                           Interpretive Centre: Tel 041-988    held funerary offerings and
                           0300. Open daily. Closed Dec 24–27.   the bones of the dead. The
       Elegant stuccoed hall and staircase at   & 8 obligatory. ^ in tomb.    chamber’s corbeled ceiling
       Castletown House    - = ∑ newgrange.com  has proved completely
       2 Castletown        The origins of Newgrange, one   waterproof for 5,000 years.
                                                 Newgrange is very popular,
       House               of the most important passage   especially in summer, so queues
                           graves in Europe, are steeped in   are likely and you have to wait
       Celbridge, Co. Kildare. Tel 01-628 8252.
       @ 67, 67A from Dublin. Open mid-  mystery. Built around 3200 BC, it   your turn at the Brú na Bóinne
       Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid-  was rediscovered in 1699. When   Interpretive Centre. This has
       Mar: grounds only. & 8 obligatory.   it was excavated in the 1960s,   displays on the area’s Stone Age
       ^ - 7 limited. ∑ castletown.ie  archaeologists realized that at   heritage. The tour includes the
                           dawn on the winter solstice   nearby tomb at Knowth. The last
       Built in 1722–32 for William   (December 21), a beam of   one starts at 3:15pm in winter
       Conolly, Speaker of the Irish   sunlight shines through the   and at 5:15pm in midsummer.
       Parliament, Castletown was
       Ireland’s first grand Palladian-
       style country house. Most of the
       interiors were commissioned by
       Lady Louisa Lennox, wife of
       Conolly’s great-nephew, Tom,
       who lived here in the late 18th
       century. It was she who added
       the magnificent long gallery at
       the top of the house, with its
       Pompeiian-style friezes, cobalt-
       blue walls, and niches framing
       Classical statuary. From the long
       gallery, visitors can admire the
       curious obelisk-topped
       memorial to Speaker Conolly,
       erected by his widow in 1740.  Aerial view of Newgrange, showing the cairn and circle of standing stones
       For hotels and restaurants see p138 and p139


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