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IRELAND 129
jaunting cars (pony-and-trap
rides) here for generations. The
town does get very crowded in
the summer, thanks to the lure
of the Lakes of Killarney. The
three lakes and many of the
heather- covered hills
surrounding them lie within
Killarney National Park.
Although the landscape is
dotted with ruined castles and
abbeys, the lakes are the focus
Newman’s Mall in the quaint village of attention: the moody, watery
of Kinsale scenery is subject to subtle Gallarus Oratory, a tiny dry-stone Early
9 Kinsale shifts of light and color. Well- Christian church
known beauty spots include
Co. Cork. * 3,400. @ n Pier Road the Meeting of the Waters, the q Dingle
(0214-772 234). _ Regatta (Aug); Ladies’ View, so called because Co. Kerry. * 2,500. @ n Strand St
Kinsale Gourmet Festival (Oct). it delighted Queen Victoria’s (06691-51188). ( Fri.
∑ kinsale.ie ladies-in-waiting in 1861, and
the Gap of Dunloe, a dramatic This once remote Irish-speaking
One of the prettiest small towns mountain pass. The largest of town is today a thriving fishing
in Ireland, Kinsale has had a long the lakes, Lough Leane, is port and popular tourist center.
and checkered history. The dotted with uninhabited Brightly painted – often fairly
defeat of the Irish forces and islands. Boat trips across the hippy – craft shops and cafés
their Spanish allies at the Battle lake run from Ross Castle on abound. Along the quayside
of Kinsale in 1601 signalled the the shore nearest Killarney. are lively bars offering music
end of the old Gaelic order. Overlooking the lakes is and seafood. The harbor is
An important naval base in Muckross House, an imposing home to Dingle’s biggest star,
the 17th and 18th centuries, mansion built in 1843 in Fungi the dolphin, who has
Kinsale today is a popular Elizabethan style, set in been a permanent resident
yachting center. It is also famous beautiful gardens. It houses since 1983 and can be visited
for the quality of its cuisine and the Museum of Kerry Folklife. by boat or on swimming trips.
has a popular annual Gourmet Next door is the Walled Garden
Festival of food and drink. Centre, which incorporates Environs
Charles Fort, a fine example the garden, a restaurant, and a Dingle is a good base for
of a star-shaped bastion fort, craft center. exploring the scattered
was built by the English in the The town is also the starting archaeological remains of the
1670s to protect Kinsale against point for the popular Ring of Dingle Peninsula. The most
foreign naval forces. To reach it, Kerry tour around the Iveragh fascin ating is the Gallarus
take the signposted coastal walk Peninsula. Allow a day’s drive to Oratory, northwest of Dingle.
from the quayside. enjoy its captivating scenery. This miniature dry-stone church,
shaped like an upturned boat,
+ Charles Fort P Muckross House was built from the 6th to the
3 km (2 miles) E of Kinsale. Tel 0214- 4 km (2.5 miles) S of Killarney. Tel 064- 9th centuries. West of Dingle,
772 263. Open mid-Mar–Oct: 6670144. Open daily. Closed Jan 1, along the coast road, are the
10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar: Dec 24–26. & 8 - = 7 Iron Age fort of Dunbeg and
10am–5pm daily. Last adm: 1 hr ∑ muckross-house.ie Early Christian beehive huts.
before closing. Closed Christmas
week. & 8 - 7 limited.
0 Killarney
Co. Kerry. * 13,500. £ @
n Beech Road (064-663 1633).
∑ killarney.ie
Killarney is often derided as “a
tourist town,” but this does not
detract from its cheerful
atmosphere. The infectious
Kerry humor is personified by
the wise-cracking “jarveys,”
whose families have run The Upper Lake, smallest and most remote of the Lakes of Killarney
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