Page 244 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
P. 244

242      FR ANCE  AND   THE  L OW  C OUNTRIES


                                paintings and statues
                                were destroyed follow-
                                ing the Alteration in 1578,
                                the delicate15th-
                                century vault paintings
                                on the gilded ceiling
                                escaped damage. In
                                1755, the paintings
                                were hidden with layers
                                of blue paint and were
                                not revealed until 200
                                years later, in 1955. The
                                Oude Kerk’s stained-
                                glass windows were also
                                undamaged in the
                                ransackings of the late
                                16th century. The Lady
                                Chapel, which dates   The parlor in Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder
                                from 1552, contains
                                some of the best stained  Solder (Our Lord in the Attic).
                                glass. The magnificent   After the Alteration, when
                                oak-encased Great   Amsterdam officially became
       The Oude Kerk, a calm and peaceful haven at the heart   Organ, the work of   Protestant, many such hidden
       of the Red Light District  Christian Vater, was   churches sprang up around the
                                added to the church in   city. Built in 1663, the one here
       1 Oude Kerk         1724. Restoration work on the   served the Catholic community
                           organ continues until late 2017.  until 1887, when the nearby St.
       Oudekerksplein 23. Tel 020-625 8284.
       v 4, 9, 16, 24. Open daily (Sun: pm     Nicolaas kerk was completed.
       only). Closed Jan 1, Apr 27, Dec 25.   2 Museum Ons’   Above the mock-marble altar is
       5 11am Sun. & - 7   Lieve Heer op       Jacob de Wit’s glorious painting
       ∑ oudekerk.nl                           The Baptism of Christ (1716). The
                           Solder              tiny box bedroom where the
       The origins of the Oude Kerk (Old   Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38. Tel 020-  resident priest slept is hidden
       Church) go back to the early   624 6604. v 4, 9, 16, 24. Open daily   off a bend in the stairs.
       13th century, when a wooden   (Sun and public hols: pm only). Closed     The building became a
       church was built on a burial   Apr 27. & 8 - ∑ opsolder.nl  museum in 1888, and today
       ground on a sand bank. The              contains elegantly refurbished
       present Gothic structure is 14th   Tucked away on the edge of the   rooms, as well as a fine collec-
       century, and has grown from a   Red Light District is a restored   tion of church silver, religious
       single-aisled church into a   17th-century canal house, with   artifacts, and paintings. Restored
       basilica. As it expanded, the   two smaller houses to the rear.   to its former opulence, the parlor,
       building became a gathering   The combined upper floors   with its magnificent fireplace, is
       place for traders and a refuge for   conceal a Catholic church,   a splendid example of a living
       the poor. Though many of its   known as Ons’ Lieve Heer op   room in the Dutch Classical
                                               style of the 17th century. Entry
                                               to the museum is through the
                                               house next door, where a
                                               cloakroom, café, and temporary
                                               exhibitions are found.
                                               3 Red Light District
                                               v 4, 9, 14, 16, 24.
                                               Prostitution in Amsterdam dates
                                               back to the city’s emergence as
                                               a port in the 13th century. By
                                               1478, it had become so wide-
                                               spread that attempts were
                                               made to contain it. Prostitutes
                                               straying outside their designated
                                               area were marched back to the
       The Death of the Virgin Mary by Dirk Crabeth, one of three restored stained-glass windows   sound of pipe and drum. A
       in the Oude Kerk’s Lady Chapel          century later, the Calvinists tried
       For hotels and restaurants see p260 and p261


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