Page 347 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
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                                                artists exhibited include
        The Earthquake of 1755
                                                Ghirlandaio, Rubens, Guardi,
        The first tremor of the devastating earthquake   Gainsborough, Turner, Manet,
        was felt at 9:30am on November 1. It was   and Renoir. The collection also
        followed by a second, far more violent,   includes sculpture, jewelry,
        shock a few minutes later, which reduced   textiles, manuscripts, porcelain,
        over half the city to rubble. A third shock   and a variety of decorative arts.
        was followed by fires, which quickly
        spread. An hour later, huge waves came
        rolling in from the Tagus, flooding the   q Museu Nacional
        lower part of the city. Most of Portugal   de Arte Antiga
        suffered damage, but Lisbon was the
        worst affected: an estimated 15,000     Rua das Janelas Verdes. Tel 213-912
        people died in the city. Sebastião José    800. @ 713, 714, 727. v 15, 18.
        de Carvalho e Melo, chief minister to King   Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan 1, Easter
        José I, later Marquês de Pombal, restored   Marquês de Pombal  Sun, May 1, Dec 24 & 25. & 7 -
        order and began a progressive town-     0 ∑ museudearteantiga.pt
        planning scheme. His cool efficiency
        gained him almost total political control.  The national art collection,
                                                housed in a 17th-century
                           0 Museu Calouste     palace, was inaugurated in
                                                1770. In 1940 a modern annex
                           Gulbenkian           (including the main facade)
                                                was added. This was built on
                           Avda de Berna 45. Tel 217-823 000.
                           q Praça de Espanha, São Sebastião.   the site of a monastery, largely
                           @ 716, 756, 726, 746. Open Tue–Sun.   destroyed in the 1755
                           Closed Mon, Jan 1, Easter Sun, May 1,   earthquake. Its only surviving
                           Dec 25. & (free Sun). 0 - 7   feature, the chapel, has been
                           ∑ museu.gulbenkian.pt  integrated into the museum.
                                                  The first floor houses
                           Thanks to wealthy Armenian oil   14th–19th-century European
                           magnate Calouste Gulbenkian,   paintings, decorative arts, and
                           Portugal owns one of the finest   furniture. Artists exhibited
                           personal art collections   include Piero della Francesca,
                           assembled during the 20th   Hans Holbein the Elder, Raphael,
                           century. Gulbenkian moved to   Lucas Cranach the Elder,
                           Portugal in World War II, because   Hieronymus Bosch, and Albrecht
                           of the country’s neutral status.   Dürer. Oriental and African art,
                           This museum was inaugurated   Chinese ceramics, and the gold,
                           in 1969, as part of the charitable   silver, and jewelry collection are
                           insti tution bequeathed to the   on the second floor. The top
                           nation. The building was   floor houses Portuguese works.
       The Elevador de Santa Justa, which links the   devised to create the best      The pride of the Portuguese
       Baixa to the Chiado district  layout for the founder’s varied   collection is the Panels of St.
                           collection: the exhibits span   Vincent (c.1467–70), attributed
       affluent Lisboetas shop. On the   4,000 years, from ancient   to Nuno Gonçalves. It is an
       main street, Rua Garrett, the Café   Egypt and China, through   altarpiece painted on six
       Brasileira – once frequented    an extensive collection    panels, featuring portraits
       by writers and intellectuals –   of Islamic ceramics   of a wide range of
       remains popular. The Chiado     and carpets, to Art   contemporary figures,
       was devastated by fire in 1988, but   Nouveau. Gulbenkian   from beggars and
       has been painstakingly renovated.  was a friend of René   sailors to bishops and
         The best way to reach the   Lalique, the great   princes, including Henry
       Bairro Alto from the Baixa is    glassware and jewelry   the Navigator and the
       via the Chiado district and the   maker, and one    future João II, all paying
       Elevador de Santa Justa, a    room is filled    homage to the saint.
       Neo-Gothic elevator dating   with his work.  Another fascinating
       from 1901–2. Tourist attractions     Highlights of    aspect of the Age
       include the richly decorated   the European art   of Exploration is
       São Roque church, the ruined   collection include   recorded in the
       Igreja do Carmo, once the   Van der Weyden’s    16th-century
       largest church in Lisbon, and   St. Catherine and   Japanese screens,
       the Museu Nacional de Arte   Rembrandt’s       which show
       Contemporânea (MNAC), which   Portrait of an Old   Statue of the founder at the   Portuguese traders
       houses art from 1850–1950.  Man. Other major   Gulbenkian Museum  arriving in Japan.




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