Page 409 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Europe
P. 409

FL ORENCE      407


       w Ponte Vecchio                         opulently decorated with gold
                                               and white stuccoed ceilings. The
       @ many routes.
                                               rooms are hung with portraits of
       The Ponte Vecchio, the oldest           the Medici family and decorated
       surviving bridge in the city,           with beautiful frescoes and
       was designed by Taddeo Gaddi,           Gobelins tapestries.
       and built in 1345. The three-             Other collections at the
       arched bridge rests on two              Palazzo include the Galleria
       stout piers with boat-shaped            d’Arte Moderna, with mainly
       cutwaters. Its picturesque              19th-century works of art, the
       shops were originally occupied          Galleria del Costume, opened in
       by blacksmiths, butchers, and           1983, which reflects changing
       tanners (who used the river             taste in courtly fashions, and the
       as a convenient garbage                 Museo degli Argenti which
       dump). They were evicted in             displays the family’s lavish tastes
       1593 by Duke Ferdinando I    The massive Renaissance Palazzo Pitti,   in silverware and furniture.
       and replaced by jewelers and   home to several museums
       goldsmiths who were able to
       pay higher rents. A bust of the   e Palazzo Pitti
       most famous of Florence’s   Piazza de’ Pitti. @ D, 11, 36, 37. Tel
       goldsmiths, Benvenuto Cellini   055-29 48 83. Open 8:15am–6:50pm
       (1500–71), is located in the   Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
       middle of the bridge.  ∑ polomuseale.firenze.it
         The elevated Vasari Corridor
       runs along the eastern side of   Palazzo Pitti was originally built
       the bridge, above the shops. It   for the banker Luca Pitti, but his
       was designed in 1565 to allow   attempt to outrival the Medici
       the Medici to move from the   backfired when costs of the
       Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti   building, begun in 1457, bank-
       via the Uffizi, without having    rupted his heirs. The Medici
       to mix with the public. The   moved in and subsequent
       Mannelli family refused to   rulers of the city lived here.
       demolish their tower to make   Today, the richly decorated
       way for the corridor, and it   rooms exhibit many treasures
       stands there defiantly to this   from the Medici collections.
       day. The corridor passes around     The Palatine Gallery contains
       it, supported on brackets.  numerous works of art and   L’Isolotto with Giambologna’s Oceanus
         The “Old Bridge,” at its most   ceiling frescoes glorifying the   Fountain, Boboli Gardens
       attractive when viewed at   Medici. Raphael’s Madonna della
       sunset, was the only one to   Seggiola (c.1515) and Titian’s   r Boboli Gardens
       escape destruction during   Portrait of a Gentleman (1540)   Piazza de’ Pitti. @ D, 11, 36, 37. Tel
       World War II. Visitors today come  are among the exhibits.  055-29 48 83 (bookings). Open daily.
       to admire the views and to     On the first floor of the south   Closed 1st & last Mon of month, Jan 1,
       browse among the antiques   wing, the royal apartments –   May 1, Dec 25. & 7
       and specialized jewelry shops.  Appartamenti Reali – are
                                               Laid out behind Palazzo Pitti,
                                               the Boboli Gardens are a great
                                               example of stylized Renaissance
                                               gardening. Formal box hedges
                                               lead to peaceful groves of holly
                                               and cypress trees, interspersed
                                               with Classical statues.
                                                 Highlights include the stone
                                               amphitheater where early opera
                                               performances were staged and
                                               L’Isolotto (Little Island), with its
                                               statues of dancing peasants
                                               around a moated garden. The
                                               Grotta Grande is a Mannerist
                                               folly, which houses several
                                               statues including Venus Bathing
                                               (1565) by Giambologna and
                                               Vincenzo de’ Rossi’s Paris with
       View of the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno at sunset  Helen of Troy (1560).
                                         For hotels and restaurants see pp438–40 and pp441–3


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