Page 107 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  105

p Paimpol 4 Boat Trips
Tel (02) 96 55 44 33.
Road map D1. * 8,420. ∑ voilestraditions.fr
£ Avenue Général-de-Gaulle. @ Sardine Boat Trips
n Place de la République; (02) 96 20 Tel (02) 96 55 99 99.
83 16. ( Tue. _ Fête des Terre- Open Apr–Sep.
Neuvas et des Islandais (third Sun in ∑ eulalie-paimpol.com
Jul); Songs of the sea (every 2 years in Steam Train: Vapeur du Trieux
Aug, odd years); Fest-noz (14 Jul). Tel (02) 96 20 52 06.
∑ paimpol-goelo.com
Open mid-May–mid-Sep.
Although pleasure boats have Environs
now replaced the schooners The ruined Romanesque
that once filled the harbour, this Abbaye de Beauport,
is still the heart of Paimpol, with The 13th-century Abbaye de Beauport, 2 km (1 mile) south of Paimpol
coasters and trawlers tied up in Paimpol, now in ruins via the D786, is one of the
alongside the quais. As Pierre Loti, most beautiful abbeys in
in his novel Pêcheurs d’Islande (An lodge by the Rohans, a powerful Brittany. Built in the Anglo-
Iceland Fisherman), so eloquently Breton dynasty. The Musée du Norman style in the early 13th
described, the sea has exacted a Costume, on Place du Pont Neuf, century, it was an important
heavy price from Paimpol: 100 closed in 2016 to loan its exhibits religious centre. Visitors can
schooners and 2,000 men were to a larger exhibition and it is see the chapterhouse,
lost in the fishing expeditions unclear when it will reopen; the cloisters, refectory and
that left Paimpol for Iceland. tourist office may be able to help. storerooms. Concerts and
The first left in 1852 and, in Through photographs, models, son et lumière spectaculars
1895, 82 schooners of 400 ships’ logs, nautical equipment are staged here during the
tonnes burden set sail for the and votive offerings, the Musée summer. From the abbey,
North Sea. Each was crewed by de la Mer, in a building once a road leads to the Chapelle
about 20 seamen, who for six used for drying cod, describes Ste-Barbe, the start ing
months endured not only cold the fishing expeditions to point of a coastal path.
and great physical strain, but Newfoundland and Iceland. The Pointe de l’Arcouest,
also separation from their From Paimpol, visitors can reached via the D789
families. Their wives, the famous take a boat trip out to sea or a from Paimpol, is the main
Paimpolaises immortalized by ride on a steam train up the boarding point for the Île
Théodore Botrel, would scour Trieux valley to Pontrieux. de Bréhat.
the horizon for their return at
the Croix des Veuves-en- E Musée du Costume R Abbaye de Beauport
Ploubazlanec, north of the Place du Pont Neuf. Tel (02) 96 55 04 On the D786. Tel (02) 96 55 18 58.
town. When the ships came in, 61 or n (02) 96 20 83 16. Open Mar–Nov: daily. &
there were either joyful reunions E Musée de la Mer g Pointe de l’Arcouest
or scenes of mourning. The last Rue Labenne. Tel (02) 96 22 02 19. Les Vedettes de Bréhat.
expedition to Iceland left Open mid-Apr–Oct: daily pm. & Tel (02) 96 55 79 50.
Paimpol in 1935.
The Place du Martray, in
the town centre, is lined with Artists on Bréhat
16th-century houses. On the Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many writers and
corner of Rue de l’Église is a artists came to Bréhat. Writers included Ernest Renan, the Goncourt
shipowner’s house in the brothers, Pierre Loti and Théodore Botrel, and the artists Henri
Renaissance style, with a turret. Rivière, Paul Gauguin, Henry Matisse, Tsugouharu Foujita, Henri
The house was used as a hunting Dabadie and many others. All found inspiration in the island’s
landscapes, but they also frequented the town’s cafés. Mme Guéré,
the fearsome landlady of a certain café, once threatened to behead
a customer if he failed
to settle his slate. Taking
her at her word, the
miscreant painted his
face on the side of his
glass. Ever since, artists
have customarily
painted their portraits
on glasses at the Café
des Pêcheurs, which
now has a collection of
Vintage steam train in the station over 200 glasses. Une Rue à Bréhat, a painting by Henri Dabadie
at Pontrieux
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7

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