Page 109 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  107

Cloches, in the south side, has a
Flam boyant Gothic stained-glass Ernest Renan
window. An 18th-century spire Born in Tréguier, Ernest Renan (1823–92)
rises from the tower. The south- intended to join the priesthood, but his
side outer wall is covered in reading of the philosopher Hegel turned
Gothic tracery. The arches inside him against this vocation. A philologist
rise in three tiers to a height of who specialized in Semitic languages,
18 m (59 ft) above the nave, and he published writings that were
thought to be scandalous because they
grotesques stare down from the proposed a rational, analytical approach
base of some of the arches. The to Christianity. Renan’s Vie de Jésus (Life of
choir, in the Anglo-Norman style, Jesus) had particularly dramatic
has 46 Renais sance stalls with repercussions. When his statue was
strik ingly realistic decoration. The Ernest Renan, a native unveiled in 1903, the police were forced
cathe dral also contains the tomb of Tréguier to act to prevent its desecration.
of Jean V, Duke of Brittany, the
tomb of St Yves (1890), and the
saint’s reliquary. The 15th-century Tréguier, is famously associated poor man. The Château de
cloisters north of the choir are with Yves Helory de Kermartin, La Roche-Jagu, 14 km (9 miles)
the best-preserved in Brittany. who was canonized in 1347. A south east of Tréguier, was built
member of the local nobility, in the 15th century, on the site
E Maison Natale d’Ernest-Renan he became a protector of the of one of the ten forts that,
20 Rue Ernest-Renan. Tel (02) 96 poor, and turned the village from the 11th century,
92 45 63. Open Apr–Jun: Wed–Sun; into a refuge (minihy). An defended the Trieux valley.
Jul–Aug: daily; Sep: Wed–Sun. annual pardon (third Sun in
Closed Oct–Mar. & May) is held in his honour. + Château de La Roche-Jagu
The 15th-century church Tel (02) 96 95 62 35. Open mid-May–
Environs contains painted wooden mid-Sep: daily; Nov & Christmas hols:
The village of Minihy-Tréguier, statues of St Yves, shown, as daily pm. _ Jul–Aug: fêtes and
1 km (0.5 mile) south of usual, bet ween a rich and a music. &

Europe. Regardless of their town of this size, the deep-
rank, the Ankou (skeletal figure) water harbour here can berth
leads men, from pope and king 1,000 boats. A coast path leads
to knight and peasant, in a to a signal station.
macabre dance.
Environs
d St-Quay- The resort of Binic, 7 km (4 miles)
south of St-Quay-Portrieux, was
Portrieux a large port in the 19th century.
The Musée d’Arts et Traditions
Road map D1. £ St-Brieuc.
* 3,430. g Motorboat service to Île Populaires is devoted to local
de Bréhat Apr–mid-Sep. n 17 bis history, especially the Newfound-
Fresco of the Dance of Death in the Chapelle Rue Jeanne-d’Arc; (02) 96 70 40 64. land fishing industry. Breton
de Kermaria-an-Iskuit ( Mon & Fri. ∑ saintquayportrieux. headdresses are on display.
s Chapelle de com E Musée d’Arts et Traditions
Kermaria-an-Iskuit The pleasant coastal resort of Populaires
St-Quay-Portrieux, north of Avenue du Général-de-Gaulle, Binic.
Road map D1. 11 km (7 miles) north - St-Brieuc, once relied for its Tel (02) 96 73 37 95. Open mid–late
west of St-Quay-Portrieux via the livelihood on fishing off Jun & Sep: Wed–Mon pm; Jul–Aug:
D786 then D21. n (02) 96 65 32 53. Newfoundland. Uniquely for a pm (phone first). &
Open Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri; Sep–Jun: Tue
pm. 8 _ Pardon (third Sun in Sep).
About 3 km (2 miles) from Plouha
stands the Chapelle Kermaria-
an-Iskuit, “Chapel of Mary
Restorer of Health”. Founded in
the 13th century by a former
Crusader, it contains some
extremely rare frescoes. One of
them (1501) depicts the Dance
of Death; the fear of death was
widespread in late medieval The bay at St-Quay-Portrieux, a coastal resort with beautiful beaches

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