Page 79 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany
P. 79

ILLE-E T-VILAINE      77


                                               atmospheric conditions. It is,
                                               apparently, possible to predict
                                               the weather accordingly, and
                                               every bit as accurately as the
                                               official forecast.
                                                 Oak stakes, known as
                                               bouchots, can be seen all along
                                               the bay. Driven into the sea
                                               bed, they are used for mussel-
                                               breeding, a practice that goes
                                               back as far as the 13th century.
                                               A quarter of all mussels farmed
                                               in France are raised in this bay,
                                               where the yield reaches 10,000
                                               tonnes per year.
                                                 Windmills and low thatched
                                               houses line the coast as far
                                               as Cancale. At Le Vivier-sur-
                                               Mer, the Maison de la Baie
                                               houses a exhibition on mussel-
                                               farming and on the area’s
                                               plants and animals. Visits to
       Sand yachts on wide, flat beaches near Cherrueix  the bouchots, which are
                                               reachable on foot or by
       u Mont-Dol          i Baie du Mont-     tractor-drawn transport, also
       Road map E2. 2 km (1 mile) north of   St-Michel   start from here. Beware of fast-
       Dol-de-Bretagne on the D155.  Road map E-F1. n Dol-de-Bretagne;   rising tides and quick sand. At
                                               Cherrueix, there is a sand-
       This outcrop of granite, 65 m   (02) 99 48 15 37. _ Fête des Moules   yachting centre, where this
       (213 ft) high, commands a   (Aug); Pardon de Ste-Anne in Roz-sur-  sport (see p253) is taught on
                           Couesnon (Aug).
       breathtaking view over an               the beaches.
       expanse of polders (reclaimed   The coastline here flattens out
       land). Like neighbouring    into a wide expanse of sand   O Maison de la Baie
       Mont-St-Michel and Mont   from which, almost magically,   Le Vivier-sur-Mer.
       Tombelaine, Mont-Dol was   Mont-St-Michel rises. The   Tel (02) 99 48 84 38.
       once an island. During the   appearance of its silhouette   Open phone ahead for information.
       Palaeolithic period, the region   subtly changes with different   & for exhibitions and guided walks.
       was covered in steppe and
       fenland. Finds of animal bones
       and stone tools prove that   Polders – Land Reclaimed From the Sea
       hunter-gatherers lived on the   As glaciers began to melt at the end of the Ice Age, 10,000 years ago,
       meat of reindeer, mammoth,   the sea level rose, flooding coastal Brittany. The marshland around
       lion, woolly rhino, horse,   Mont-Dol was eventually invaded by the sea. Work to reclaim the
       aurochs (a type of 17th-   land began in the Middle Ages, when dykes were built. Crops were
       century wild cattle), bear and   grown on these areas of fertile land, known as polders. However,
       wolf. Much later, Mont-Dol   since a dyke was built between Mont-Dol and the mainland,
       became a sacred place where   sediment is no longer flushed out to sea on the ebbing tides, so that
       druids worshipped.   the bay is silting up. A solution under consideration is to remove part
         A legend tells how St Michael   of the dyke, allowing Mont-Dol to become an island again.
       and the Devil fought a battle on
       Mont-Dol. Supposed traces of
       this can be seen on the rock: the
       Devil’s claw marks, a hole for the
       Devil dug by St Michael, and
       footprints left by the Archangel
       Michael when he leaped across
       to Mont-St-Michel.
         South of Mont-Dol lies the
       small town of the same name.
       Frescoes dating from the 12th
       and 14th centuries, depicting
       scenes from the life of Christ,
       have been discovered in the   Cultivation on the polders in Baie du Mont-St-Michel
       nave of the church here.




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