Page 90 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

88  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

+ Château
Place Chateaubriand, in the Citadel. Lee Miller’s Wartime Scoop
Built in the 15th and 16th In October 1944, an eight-page report on the siege of St-Malo
centuries, the castle was used appeared in the pages of American Vogue. The report and
by Jean V, Duke of Brittany accompanying photographs were by-lined Lee Miller, Man Ray’s
(1399–1442), mainly as a base companion, a friend of Paul Éluard and Pablo Picasso, and a
from which to keep watch over model and fashion photographer. The only journalist in the city
the infamously rebellious during the bombings, she
people of St-Malo. Jean’s recorded the destruction of
daughter Anne (see pp48–9), St-Malo. “My heel sank into
who became queen of France a disembodied hand, and I
through her marriage to Charles cursed the Germans for the
VIII, enlarged the castle, with the horrible destruction that
same purpose in mind. Knowing they had inflicted on this
the dissenting character of the once-splendid city,” she
townspeople, she had these wrote at the time. Antony
Penrose, Lee Miller’s son
words engraved in the wall of a and the author of her
tower in the castle’s east wing: biography, relates that the
“Quic en groigne, ainsi sera, car tel photographs taken by his
est mon plaisir” (Thus will it be, mother were such a scoop
whoever complains, for this is that they were confiscated
my will.) The people of St-Malo by the British censors: it
defiantly christened the castle was during the liberation
Quic-en-Groigne. of St-Malo that napalm
Place Chateaubriand in 1944 had first been used.
E Musée d’Histoire de
St-Malo
In the castle keep. Tel (02) 99 40 71 57. + Fort du Petit-Bé + Fort National
Open Apr–Sep: daily; Nov–Mar: Tue– Tel 06 08 27 51 20. Open depends on Northeast of the castle. Tel (06) 72 46
Sun. Closed public holidays. & the weather; phone ahead. & 8 66 26. Accessible on foot at low tide.
This museum, dedicated to the Facing the Bidouane Tower When the French flag flies over the fort,
history of St-Malo, occupies and Champs-Vauverts gate, it is open to the public. 8 Jun–Sep:
the keep, which stands at the this fort, which was designed Wed–Mon (mid-Jul–mid-Aug: daily. &
entrance to the castle. With by Vauban (see p173) in the In the 18th century, five coastal
granite walls and high chimney- 17th century, is accessible forts – La Varde, Le Petit-Bé, La
pieces, it provides a sumptuous either by foot at low tide or Conchée, Harbour and the Fort
setting for the exhibits. by boat. It was owned by the National – defended the Baie
The collection consists of French army until 1885, then de St-Malo. The Fort National
paintings, sculpture, figure- decommissioned and restored was designed by the military
heads, models of ships and to the city of Saint-Malo. It engineer Vauban in 1689. It was
topographical models illustra ting was classified as a historic built by Garangeau (see p86) on
the city’s history and its seafaring monument in 1921. the Rocher de l’Islet, where
traditions. Prominent citizens, Reproductions of 17th- and criminals were once executed.
such as the corsair Robert Surcouf, 18th-century military plans From here, there is a splendid
the explorer Jacques Cartier, and illustrate the history of the view of the ramparts, the Rance
men of letters Chateaubriand defence of St-Malo. An ancient estuary and the Îles Chausey.
(see p75) and Lamennais (see mareographe, used to calcu-
p31) are also honoured. late the tides, is also on display. P St-Servan
This residential district to the
south of the walled city of
St-Malo contains some fine
houses. Numerous sailing ships
are berthed in the Les Bas-
Sablons harbour. From here, a
road leads to Alet.
E Musée du Long Cours
Cap-Hornier
In the Tour Solidor. Tel (02) 99 40 71
58. Open Apr–Sep: daily; Nov–Mar:
Tue–Sun. Closed public holidays. &
The tower now houses a
museum devoted to those who,
The Fort National, designed by Vauban and built by Garangeau following trade routes, sailed
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5

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