Page 190 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands

188  WESTERN NE THERLANDS

Exploring Haarlem P Stadhuis
Grote Markt 2. Tel 023­5115115.
Haarlem became a city in 1245, and had grown into a thriving Open by appt only. 7
clothmaking centre by the 15th century. But the city was sacked Haarlem’s Stadhuis (town hall)
in the Spanish siege of 1572–3, and a series of fires wreaked has grown rather haphazardly
further destruction in 1576. The town’s fortunes changed in the since 1250 and is an odd mixture
of architectural styles. The oldest
17th century, when industrial expansion ushered in a period of part of the building is the beamed
prosperity lasting throughout the Golden Age. The centre was medieval banqueting hall of the
largely rebuilt by Lieven de Key (1560–1627) and still retains counts of Holland, originally
much of its character. The Grote Kerk continues to overlook the known as the Gravenzaal. Much
city’s hofjes (almshouses), and the brick-paved lanes around the of this was destro yed in two great
fires in 1347 and 1351, but the
Grote Markt are little changed.
15th­century panel portraits
of the counts of Holland can still
be seen.
The wing of the town hall
bordering the Grote Markt was
designed by Lieven de Key
in 1622. It is typical of Dutch
Renaissance architecture,
combining elaborate gables,
ornate painted detail and
Classical features, such as
pediments over the windows.
In a niche above the main
entrance is a plump allegorical
figure of Justice, bearing a sword
in one hand and scales in the
other as she smiles benignly
Grote Markt, Haarlem (c.1668) by Berckheijde, showing the Grote Kerk upon the pavement cafés in the
market below. To the left, in
E Frans Hals Museum upper walls and 28 supporting Koningstraat, an archway leads
See pp90–91. columns painted in greens, reds to the university buildings behind
and golds. The intricate choir the Stadhuis, where there is a
R Grote Kerk screen, like the magnificent brass 13th­century cloister and library.
Grote Markt 22. Tel 023­5532040. lectern in the shape of a preening
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat (Apr–Oct eagle, was made by master metal E De Hallen
till 5pm). Closed Easter, Whitsun, 27 worker Jan Fyerens in about 1510. Grote Markt 16. Tel 023­5115775.
Apr, 5 May, 25 Dec–2 Jan. & 7 8 The choirstalls (1575) are painted Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
∑ bavo.nl with coats of arms, and the & ∑ dehallen.nl
The enormous Gothic edifice of armrests and misericords are The Verweyhal (museum of
Sint Bavo’s great church, or Grote carved with caricatures of animals modern art) and the Vleeshal
Kerk, was a favourite subject of and human heads. Not far away (exhibition space), both in
the 17th­century Haarlem School is the simple stone slab covering the Grote Markt, are part
artists Pieter Saenredam (1597– the grave of Haarlem’s most of the Frans Hals Museum
1665) and Gerrit Berckheijde famous artist, Frans Hals. (see pp190–91). The Verweyhal
(1639–98). Built between 1400 The Grote Kerk boasts one accommodates exhibitions
and 1550, the church and its of Europe’s finest and most of Dutch Expressionism, the
ornate bell tower dominate the flamboyant organs, built in Cobra School (see p193),
market square. Clinging on to 1735 by Christiaan Müller. Impressionism and
the exterior of the south wall is In 1738 Handel tried contemporary works.
a jumble of 17th­century shops the organ and pro­ It is named after the
and houses. The rents raised from nounced it excellent. painter Kees Verwey,
these ramshackle, untidy It also found favour whose Impressionist
buildings contributed to the with the infant still lifes are an
maintenance of the church. prodigy Mozart, important feature
Today, the entrance to the who shouted for of the collection. The
Grote Kerk is through one of the joy when he gave heavily ornamented
surviving shops, a tiny antec­ a recital on it in Vleeshal (meat
hamber that leads straight into 1766. The organ is market), just to the
the enormous nave. The church still often used for west of the church,
has a high, delicately patterned, concerts, recordings Detail on Vleeshal façade houses temporary
vaulted cedarwood ceiling, white and teaching. by Lieven de Key exhibitions of modern
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10

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