Page 187 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands
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NOR TH  HOLLAND      185


                                               breweries now use. There is
                                               also a reconstruction of an old
                                               café interior. Under the same
                                               roof is a lovely waterside café
                                               and “tasting house” where 86
                                               different beers, many of them
                                               Dutch, can be sampled.
                                                 South of the kaasmarkt, on
                                               the corner where Mient meets
                                               Verdronkenoord, is the vismarkt
                                               or fish market, which dates
                                               back to the 1500s and was
                                               still in use until 1998. The low,
                                               colonnaded stalls are covered
                                               to protect traders and their
                                               wares from the elements,
                                               and contain brick and stone
                                               benches where catches of fish
       Porters carrying cheese on sledges at Alkmaar’s traditional cheese market  were displayed to customers.
                                               The current buildings date
       t Alkmaar           of the cheese market is the   back to the mid-18th century.
                           Nationaal Bier museum De   Further along Verdronkenoord
       Road map B3. * 94,000. @    Boom. Housed in an impressive   is the Sint Laurenskerk or
       £ n Waagplein 2 (072-5114284).   17th-century building, formerly   Grote Kerk. This 15th-century
       ( Weekly market Sat; cheese    the biggest brewery in the town,   church has one of the most
       market Fri morning, Apr–Sep.
       ∑ vvvhartvannoordholland.nl  the museum explores a   important organs in Europe,
                           millennium of beer drinking in   built in 1639–46, and is
       This old town has at least 400   the Netherlands. The museum   noteworthy for its painting
       monuments, and the street   illustrates, for example, how in   on the ceiling depicting
       layout has barely changed over   the Middle Ages Alkmaar   the Last Judgment
       the centuries. Along the canals,   lacked a supply of safe   by Jacob Cornelisz.
       old merchants’ houses and small  drinking water, so   van Oostzanen.
       courtyards can still be seen. The   brewers would   The scene was
       Stedelijk Museum depicts the   ship barrels of   painted on nine
       history of the town through   clean water from   wooden panels
       paintings, videos and models. It   the surrounding   in 1518–1519.
       also has a collection of paintings  dunes and   The Renaissance façade of the   In 1885, due to
       from the Bergen School of the   streams, and then   weigh house  water damage,
       1920s and 1930s.    make it into beer. The     the panels were
         Alkmaar is famous for its   collection of equipment shows   taken to the Rijksmuseum,
       traditional kaasmarkt (cheese   the beer-making process over   only to return during the
       market), which is held every   the last 100 years, from copper   German occupation.
       Friday morning from early April to   vats, kettles, barrels and bottles
       early September. The large yellow   to examples of the modern   E Stedelijk Museum
       wheels of cheese arrive by barge.   laboratory technology that   Canadaplein 1. Tel 072-5489789.
       They are tossed from the barges         Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
       by four groups of seven porters         (to 7pm on Fri). Closed 1 Jan,
       from the 400-year-old cheese            27 Apr, 25 Dec. & 7
                                               ∑ stedelijkmuseumalkmaar.nl
       porters’ guild. The porters are
       dressed in white and divided into       E Waaggebouw and
       guild groups by the colour of           Kaasmuseum
       their hats. The cheese is loaded        Waagplein 2. Tel 072-5114284.
       onto sledges, which the porters         Open Mar & Oct: Mon–Sat, Apr–
       run with to the waag gebouw             Sep: daily; Nov–Feb: Sat. & 7
       (public weigh house), where the         E Nationaal Biermuseum
       cheese is weighed. Once tasting         De Boom
       has taken place, the cheese is          Houttil 1. Tel 072-5113801.
       auctioned off by a system called        Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols.
       handjeklap, with sellers clapping       7 ∑ biermuseum.nl
       each other on the hands. The            R Grote Kerk
       Kaasmuseum (cheese museum)              Koorstraat 2. Tel 072-5140707.
       at the waaggebouw shows both            Open Apr–May: 10am–4pm Thu–Sat;
       modern and traditional methods   The Biermuseum, where a variety of beers   Jun–Sep: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun; during
       of dairy farming. A little north    can be sampled  exhibitions. ∑ grotekerk-alkmaar.nl
                                     For hotels and restaurants in this region see p397 and pp409–10


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