Page 59 - (DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - The Netherlands
P. 59

THE  HIST OR Y  OF   THE  NE THERLANDS      57


                                                 Where to See Calvinist
                                                 Netherlands
                                                 Strict Calvinism can be found
                                                 in the Netherlands’ “Bible belt”,
                                                 which stretches from Zeeland
                                                 and southeastern South
                                                 Holland via the Veluwe to
                                                 the cape of Overijssel and
                                                 Drenthe. The strict Sunday
                                                 worship, black clothes and
                                                 head coverings when
                                                 attending church, as well
                                                 as abstinence from modern
                                                 developments (such as
                                                 television and vaccinations),
       Pieter Saenredam (1597–1665) painted unrivalled pictures    are gradually disappearing.
       of the plain Calvinist churches – this one is Interior of the Sint-  However, when visiting such
       Odolphuskerk in Assendelft.               areas, do remember that
                                                 photography and driving are
                                                 still not looked upon kindly
                                                 in Reformed Church villages.
                                                 These communities are closed,
                                                 with strong social controls.
                                                 Calvinist villages worth visiting
                                                 are Goedereede (see p245), in
                                                 South Holland, and Staphorst
                                    Priceless
                                    stained-glass   (see p324), in Overijssel, as well
                                    windows are   as the former Zuiderzee island
                                    systematically   of Urk (see p330), where older
                                    smashed to   people continue to wear
                                    pieces.      traditional dress.
                                    The leaders of
                                    the Iconoclastic
                                    Riots came from
                                    all classes of the
                                    population. In
                                    addition to
                                    fervent Calvinists,
                                    there were also
                                    paid helpers and
                                    all kinds of
                                    hangers-on
                                    who used the
                                    opportunity
                                    to do some
                                    plundering.
                                                 Early to Church by A. Allebé




                          Clandestine Churches
                          When, in 1597, the Union of Utrecht proclaimed mandatory Calvinist
                          services throughout the Netherlands and Zeeland, a blind eye – in return
                          for payment – was turned to other confessions. Catholics, Remonstrants
                          and Mennonites held their services in secret churches, which were
                          unrecognizable as such from the outside. They were generally held in
                          town houses, although later they were held in secret churches that were
                          built for the purpose, particularly in Amsterdam, with De Zon and De
                          Rode Hoed. The St Gertrudis kapel (1645) in Utrecht and Ons’ Lieve Heer
                          op Solder (1663, now the Amstelkring Museum) in Amsterdam are the
        Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder  finest surviving early examples of these institutions.





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