Page 106 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

104 BACK ROADS FRANCE

w Trégastel Plage
Côtes-d’Armor, Bretagne; 22730
Trégastel’s coastal splendour radiates
from its stretches of dusky pink sand
and granite rocks, a series of deep
coves and inlets and a microclimate
vegetation of exotic native plants,
including mimosa, fig, hydrangea,
aloe, wild rosemary, lavender, agave
and yucca (bear grass). Visitors have
the option of choosing from a dozen
adjacent beaches by cove-hopping
and coastal trekking. The main
Above Left Megalithic site Allée Couverte de coastal promenade, the Sentier
Ty-ar-kornandounezed Above Right Brick q Ploumanac’h Douanier (customs trail), heads off in
house in Trégastel Below Pink granite Perros-Guirec, Côtes-d’Armor, both directions, while the marked
boulders on the beach in Ploumanac’h Bretagne; 22700 pathway around the Île Renote
At the heart of the Côte de Granit circumnavi gates the conservation
Rose, the Grand Site National de zone of this coastal outcrop. The
Ploumanac’h is an extraordinary Aquarium Marin de Trégastel (closed
place with pink granite boulders Mon except Jul–Aug) near the beach
randomly, and at times precariously, Coz-Pors has 28 exhibition ponds of
stacked along 30 ha (75 acres) of marine fauna set within the rocks.
protected coast and beach front. The ª Exit Trégastel Plage and Saint-
natural sculpture of massive granite Anne and take the D788. After the
blocks and rock splinters has been corniche roads, turn right and cross
shaped by 300 million years of the bridge into the Rue de L’Île Grande
erosion. The pink granite is a mix of which becomes the D21. To reach the
quartz, mica and feldspar. The spec- megalithic site of Allée Couverte de
tacle is best viewed in the evening Ty-ar-kornandounezed turn right at
when the setting sun bathes the the tiny hamlet of Île-Grande and take
WHERE TO STAY
granite formations in crimson hues the direction to Pors-Gelen; then some
with the light house standing sentinel 300 m (328 yards) on the left is the
PLOUMANAC’H
in the background. road which leads to the site.
Hotel Castel Beau Site moderate ª Take the D788 to Sainte-Anne,
Perched on the Côte de Granit Rose
promenades, this handsome mansion then continue to Trégastel Plage e Île Grande
has 40 (mostly sea-facing) rooms. The following the signs to Côte de Granit Côtes-d’Armor, Bretagne; 22560
hotel has undergone a minimalist Rose. Note that the pretty town of Despite its name, Île Grande is just
renovation, including Ligne Roset Trégastel with its stone cottages is 7 km (4 miles) in circumference, and
furnishings. It also has an edge-of-
water terrace restaurant. 2.5 km (1.5 miles) inland on the connected by bridge to the main-
Plage de Saint-Guirec Ploumanac’h, Route du Lannion. land. The small port and village are
22700; 02 96 91 40 87;
www.castelbeausite.com
TRÉBEURDEN
Hôtel Le Toëno
inexpensive–moderate
Spirited seaside hotel with the basic
facilities and bright rooms with sea-
facing balconies.
Route de Trégastel Trébeurden, 22560;
02 96 23 68 78; www.hoteltoeno.com
Ti Al Lannec Hôtel Restaurant
& Spa expensive
Serenity reigns in this four-star “Relais
du Silence”, a hotel-restaurant located
between huge cypress trees and with
180-degree sea views. The family man-
sion atmosphere and cliffside location
mingle magically with flawless service
and breezy, relaxed cordiality.
14 allée de Mézo-Guen, 22560; 02 96
15 01 01; www.tiallannec.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150