Page 107 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France
P. 107

DRIVE 8: Côtes-d’Armor: Land of the Sea  105


       surrounded by a string of islets and
       the barren landscape is dramatically
       shaped by the tides. Up until 1910,
       millions of tonnes of blue and white
       granite were extracted from Île
       Grande’s quarry helping to pave
       the streets of Paris and quays of
       Dunkerque. Now the Kastel Erek
       quarry is the heart of an ornitho-
       logical reserve and bird hospital run
       by the League for the Protection of
       Birds. A megalithic site of standing
       stones – Allée Couverte de Ty-ar-
       kornandounezed – lies in the centre              Above Seascape of Trébeurden as viewed
       of the island. The site dates back to   r Trébeurden  from the cliffs Below Cosy little bar in
       around 2,300 BC. Either drive there or   Côtes-d’Armor, Bretagne; 22560   Trégastel Plage
       pass it on a circular trek of the isle,   From the densely forested cliffs
       which takes about 2 hours.  above Trébeurden the seascape
       ª Return via the D21, also known as   takes in multiple coves, beaches and
       the Rue de l’Île Grande, and then turn   islands, including the Île Milliau. The   EAT AND DRINK
       right onto the D788 (Corniche de Goas   town is also home to the Holy Trinity
       Treiz). Next turn left onto the D65 to   Church, built in the shape of a Latin   TRÉGASTEL PLAGE
       reach Trébeurden.       cross. Walk out to the granite out-  Restaurant Les Triagoz expensive
                               crop, the Presqu’Île Le Castel, where   Waves will lap at diners’ feet as they
                               fabulous rock forms sculpted by the   sip or eat on the terrace of this
                               ocean have names such as Père   modern bistro, with a seafood-
                                                        dominated menu and modern takes
                               Trébeurden. On the Pointe de Bihit,   on traditional Breton dishes.
                               where visitors may catch otters   Place du Coz-Pors, 22730;
                               sunbath ing among the ferns and   02 96 15 34 10;
                               heather,there is an orientation table   closed Tue, Wed lunch
                               with views reaching as far as the   TRÉBEURDEN
                               Finistère coastline. From the main
                                                        Manoir de Lan Kerellec expensive
                               beach, Goas Treiz, head into the   Grand cuisine, seafood and rural
                               wetlands of the Marais de Quellen, a   produce, at one-star Michelin hotel-
                               haven for birders and trekkers. Its   restaurant with views towering
                               hedged farmlands are home to a   over the coast.
                                                        Allee Centrale de Lan Kerellec, 22560 ;
                               population of Camargue horses from
                                                        02 96 15 00 00;
                               the south of France, offering another   www.lankerellec.com; closed
                               way of visiting the area.  Mon–Thu for lunch and Dec–Feb
        DAYTRIP OPTIONS       Vallée de la Rance     heath-covered north and the island
        The first two day trips work well for   At the northern end of the Dinan 3   of flowers in the south.
        those who wish to stay near the Côte  port area, nature and maritime lovers
                                                      Head out of Perros-Guirec on the D6,
        d’Emeraude. The ideas for the last two  can start exploring the Vallée de la
                                                      turn left into the D786 and continue
        trips are for those who base them-  Rance, its canals, cycle paths and
                                                      via Tréguier to Paimpol. Take the D789
        selves on the Côte de Granit Rose.  riverbank walking trails. From there
                                                      to the Pointe de l’Arcouest, where boats
                               visitors can drive off to see the adja-
        Trip to the beach                             ply to Port-Clos.
                               cent villages and countryside manors.
        After exploring all of Saint-Malo’s 1
        ramparts, drive to Cap Fréhel 8 in   From Dinan port, the D12 heads off    Trégastel Plage
        the afternoon and take a cruise   to Lehon, while the D676 leads to   Children will love a lazy day on the
        (www.compagniecorsaire.com) to    Lanvallay, and then to La-Vicomte-sur-  beach and learning about the sea
        see the beautiful headlands from    Rance. The port is accessed from the   creatures, tidal phenomena and
        the sea.               old town via Rue du Général de Gaulle.   pink granite at the eco-friendly
                                                      Marine Aquarium.
        From Saint-Malo take the D168 then   Île-de-Bréhat
        the D768 towards St-Jacut, then the   The day trip to the Île-de Brehat   Take the Boulevard du Coz-Pors to
        D786. At Sainte-Aide continue on the   allows visitors to encounter the   Trégastel Plage and continue on the
        the D16/D16A to Cap Fréhel.   varied landscape between its wilder,   same road for the aquarium.
                                        Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40
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