Page 102 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

100 BACK ROADS FRANCE

nearly all that remained before
reconstruction. A tour of the walls
takes in the bastion, château and
Bidouane tower and viewpoint.
ª Head out of town on the Rue de la
Rance which leads into the D168 to
cross the Barrage de la Rance. At La
Richardais take the D114 to Dinard.
2 Dinard
Ille-et-Vilaine, Bretagne; 35800
A nostalgic beach holiday ambience
lingers among the seaside pavi lions,
casinos, café parasols and oyster bars
along the main beach of this seaside
resort. The Chemin de Ronde traces
the old city walls and climbs up
around the cliffs past handsome villas.
Dinard is characterized by some 400
classified mansions, described as
Top left View of the ramparts of the fortress Anglo-Breton with their towers, turrets
town of Saint-Malo Above left Anglo-Breton 1 Saint-Malo and Tudor wood features. Garden-
houses in Dinard Above right Restaurant at Ille-et-Vilaine, Bretagne; 35400 lovers should not miss the Parc du
Dinan port Saint-Malo is named after a Welsh Port Breton (open daily) and the Jardin
monk, Mac Low, who arrived here in des Senteurs (open daily).
the 6th century. Built on a granite ª From the seafront, turn left onto
VISITING DINAN
knoll over the ocean, Saint-Malo’s the D114 to Saint-Malo and continue
allure comes from its eternal link with straight ahead to La Richardais/Le
Tourist Information
9 rue du Château; 02 96 87 69 76; the sea. The fortress-town suffered Minihic-sur-Rance. After driving
www.dinan-tourisme.com enormous damage during World through Plouër-sur-Rance, follow the
War II and the ancient ramparts were D12 to Dinan.
Parking
There are car parks near the castle: Place
du Guesclin and Place du Champ-Clos.
3 Dinan
WHERE TO STAY Côtes d’Armor, Bretagne; 22100
Dominating the Vallée de la Rance from its ancient fortifications, this
SAINTMALO medieval city is known for its art and history, with its architectural
Hotel Beaufort moderate heritage remarkably preserved. The first Breton king, Nominoë,
This is a fine newly redecorated hotel encouraged monks to establish a monastery here in the 9th century.
more like a private home in ambience.
25 chaussée du Sillon, 34500; 02 99 40 Work on the ramparts began in 1283 and spanned four centuries.
99 99; www.hotel-beaufort.com
Le Villefromoy moderate–expensive A two-hour walking tour is named after its 15th-century clock
Very welcoming small hotel in a mid- From Place de Guesclin take Rue du tower, the Tour de l’Horloge 3. It
19th-century villa, located in the
residential area of Rochebonne beach. Château to the Office de Tourisme. continues to the intersection with
7 boulevard Hébert, 34500; 02 99 40 92 Next to it is Dinan’s Castle Dungeon 1 Rue de l’Apport. L’Apport 4 is an
20; www.villefromoy.fr amid a cluster of rampart rem nants, ancient trading square circled by
old city gates and towers. The Tour porches, and three different types of
DINAN
de Coetquen is home to the Musée wood-slat houses characteris tic of
Hotel de la Porte Saint Malo d’Art et d’Histoire 2. Retrace the Dinan. These include 15th-century
inexpensive–moderate
Small and personal hotel in a stone route up Rue du Château to Place du houses with oriel windows, 16th-
building in an old residential quarter. Champ-Clos, where there is a statue century houses with porches and
35 rue de Saint-Malo, 22100; 02 96 39 of Bertrand du Guesclin, who was 17th-century houses with decorative
19 76; www.hotelportemalo.com the French military com mander shop win dows. On the opposite side
Hotel le d’Avaugour during the Hundred Years’ War and of the street are two contagious
moderate–expensive the Constable of France. From here squares testifying to Dinan’s lively
Relaxed hotel in a maison bourgeoise. enter the heart of Vieux Dinan – the spiritual and trading history – the
Lovely communal spaces include a
reading room and salon. old town – down Rue Sainte-Claire Place des Cordeliers and the Place
1 place du Champ-Clos, 22100; 02 96 and left into Rue de Léhon which des Merciers. From here, turn left into
39 07 49; www.avaugourhotel.com leads to Rue de l’Horloge. The street the Grande Rue which leads to the
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150