Page 104 - (DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - France

102 BACK ROADS FRANCE

du Rougeret on the right and follow
for about 1.7 km (1 mile); then turn
left into Boulevard des Dunes, also
called the D62. Continue until it meets
the D786 and turn right; continue until
Notre-Dame-du-Guildo and turn right
onto the D19 which leads to
Saint-Cast-le-Guildo.
6 Saint-Cast-le-Guildo
Côtes-d’Armor, Bretagne; 22380
Once a humble fishing village,
Saint-Cast-le-Guildo was named after
Above Fourteenth-century Fort la Latte on a Welsh monk, one of several who
the Côte d’Émeraude Below Walking trail 4 Jugon-les-Lacs evangelized the area in the 6th
through the ecological zone in Pointe du Côtes-d’Armor, Bretagne; 22270 century. It became a seaside resort
Chevet near St-Jacut-de-la-Mer The granite cottages and castle of in the late 1800s. The town is
this once fortified little town nestle perched on a headland which
deep in a forested valley on the separates the Baie de la Fresnaye
shores of a 4-km (2-mile) long lake. from the Baie de l’Arguenon, with
WHERE TO STAY Its sheltered waters once acted as a more than half a dozen beaches
natural moat to ward off invaders. strung around its jagged coast. From
AROUND JUGONLESLACS They are now a haven for ramblers, the main beach, Grande Plage, it is
Manoir du Vaumadeuc anglers, canoeists and sailors. The just a short walk between the sand
moderate–expensive village castle lies on a hillock dunes and cliffs to the fishing and
Twelve kilometres (7 miles) north of between two rivers – Rosette and leisure port, and another short walk
Jugon-les-Lacs, the 15th-century Arguenon. The old-world charm of to reach the Point de Saint-Cast.
noble family château has chunky
wooden beam ceilings, large fireplaces the town, with its castle, town square The stunning panorama from here
and French Renaissance gardens. The and small cobble stoned ruelles full reaches the Channel Islands on a
11 rooms and two apartments are of artists’ ateliers and lavoirs (commu- clear day.
classily furnished with fine fabrics and nal washing places), has earned it the ª Exit on the D13, pass Chateau La
wallpapers. Some of them have title “Petite City of Character”. Chesnaye, and turn right onto the
vintage bathtubs, stone fireplaces and
antique writing desks. ª Take the D792 heading north and D786. At Sainte-Aide turn right onto
Pléven, 22130; 02 96 84 46 17; www. pass by Plancoët. Continue on the the D16/D16A and follow the road
vaumadeuc.com; closed Nov–Easter D768, then at the roundabout take until the sign on the right for Fort la
the third exit; continue on the D26 to Latte is seen.
AROUND POINTE DU CHEVET
St-Jacut-de-la-Mer and follow signs
Le Vieux Moulin inexpensive
The old stone walls of the moulin du through to the Pointe du Chevet, Breton Identity
blé – a wheat mill which operated making a small detour to view the Language is at the heart of a very
from 1415 to 1918 – create enormous 5th-century Benedictine Abbaye de strong identité bretonne. Education,
character in the small hôtel de charme. Saint-Jacut (not open to visitors). media, town names and street
The 26 rooms are spick and span, and signs are bilingual – in French and
pleasantly furnished with antique beds Breton, or in Gallo, a Latin-derived
and tables. The hotel interiors, from 5 Pointe du Chevet language spoken in eastern Brittany.
the bar to the restaurant, have an old- St-Jacut-de-la-Mer, Côtes-d’Armor,
world style – dark wood, dark stones, Bretagne; 22750 Polls show that nearly 90 per cent
bay windows and Art Deco floor tiles. The narrow rocky isthmus of St-Jacut- of the population want the Breton
The garden setting adds to the charm. de-la-Mer is wedged between two language and culture to survive.
22 rue du Moulin, Saint-Jacut-de-la-
Mer, 22750; 02 96 27 71 02; www.hotel- large inlets, the bays of Lancieux and
le-vieux-moulin.com Arguenon. Skirted by rocky beaches,
dunes and vast tracts of oyster farms,
CAP FRÉHEL
the peninsula – which culminates in
Relais du Cap Fŕehel inexpensive the Pointe du Chevet – is a protected
Peace and greenery reign in this 19th-
century farmhouse run by the Billets. ecological and flora zone, and a
Set in a wooded park, 2 km (1 mile) refuge for many migratory birds. The
from the beach, the property includes promontory looks over the Île des
bed-and-breakfast loft rooms cosily Hébihens and its 17th-century
furnished, as well as two self- granite tower, built to ward off
contained cottages. Evening meals are
available on request. attacks by the English navy.
Route du Cap, Plévenon, 22240; ª Return to St-Jacut via the
02 96 41 43 02; www.relaiscapfrehel.fr Boulevard du Chevet. Take Boulevard
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150